Wrote about wontons over a year ago.
See this post:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/01/wonton-wonton-soup-wonton-soup-with.html.
WONTON FILLING
Enough for fifty dumplings
One cup chopped shrimp.
One cup ground pork.
Quarter cup chopped water chestnuts (馬蹄 matai).
One TBS minced parsley (洋香芹 yeung heung kan) .
One TBS minced cilantro (芫茜 yuen sai).
One stalk scallion (葱 tsung), minced.
Half TBS sherry or rice wine.
Half TBS oyster sauce (豪油 hoyau).
One Tsp. soy sauce (酱油 cheung yau, 豉油 si yau).
One Tsp. sesame oil (麻油 ma yau).
Half Tsp. cornstarch (玉米淀粉 yiuk mai din fan).
Half Tsp. sugar (白糖 pak tong).
Regarding cup measurements for the shrimp and pork: these are more or less eight ounces or 226 grammes.
Parsley is NOT traditional, but I like the taste, and it's good for the digestion.
Substitutions can be made, for instance the proportion of shrimp increased drastically and the quantity of pork decreased correspondingly.
Instead of water chestnut, chopped rehydrated cloud ear (雲耳 wun yi) could be used, as they too have a wonderful textural effect.
Mix everything, but do not overwork it, as doing so makes the meat tough. The shrimp fragments should be larger than the pork or water chestnut particles, everything else smaller - reason being that you want the 'crunch' of the shrimp, and the lesser ingredients need to be evenly distributed throughout.
Put a dab of filling into each wonton skin, brush the exposed edges with egg wash, and first press two diagonal corners against each other, then bring up the other two corners up to form tails, pressing out the air in the pouch.
The result should look like a purse or hobo's pack.
Place each finished dumpling on a floured plate or tray. It is VERY important that the surface be floured. Otherwise you will rip the wontons when you try to pick them up.
Sufficient for fifty wonton. To freeze, dust with flour, and wrap in a plastic film which has also been dusted. Six or seven dunplings per packet, so that one packet can be removed as needed. You can also arrange them in a sealed container with wax paper between the layers.
NOTE: Rather than making your own wrappers, it is best to buy them premade, so I shall not discuss how to make the skins, other than to say that if you've made kreplach from scratch, you could use the same recipe for the wrapper.
FYI: As a matter of interest, the amount of pork given above is the equivalent of two fresh Italian sausages.
SOUP FOR WONTON
Two pounds chicken on the bone.
One pound pork on the bone.
Half cup pieces dried flounder (左口魚 jorhau yu, 大地魚 daidei yu).
Two TBS dried shrimp.
Four quarts (16 cups, approx 5 litres) water.
Quarter cup sherry or rice wine.
Three or four slices ginger.
Half Tsp. white peppercorns.Roast or fry the dried flounder pieces nicely brown, but do not burn them.
Blanch the chicken and pork briefly in boiling water, drain and rinse well.
Place everything except the dried shrimp in a cauldron and simmer on low for three hours, skimming a few times in the first half hour.
Add the dried shrimp in the last half hour.
Strain very well.
Blanching the meat and bones first prevents overmuch scum, and yields a much cleaner broth.
The dried flounder is the essential Cantonese touch - it will NOT make the broth taste like stinky dried fish, but instead unify the flavours and add a nutty seafood saveur of its own.
Think of it as bouillon base.
Well then. You have your wonton, you've got the broth. What else will you need?
OTHER STUFF
Egg-noodles. These have to be thin and fresh, for the best texture and taste. Fresh egg noodles need about a minute of blanching, whereas dried noodles take between three to five minutes, depending on thickness.
Dried noodles will also have a whiff of lye water.
Vegetables. It is very 'Chinatown' to add a few coarsely ripped baby bokchoi (小白菜 siu paktsoi) to the bowl of soup, though it isn't traditional. For that matter, neither is adding noodles, and most non-Cantonese are appalled at that innovation, so go right ahead.
The sweet crisp freshness of the tiny greens are a marvelous chiddush.
Meats. Some people like to add some thinly sliced charsiu pork (叉燒) on top of the soup. This is not necessary at all, but no great heresy either. If you choose to do so, use the fattier kind.
Chunks of roast duck are also delicious.
Garnishes. Garlic chives are traditional in Hong Kong, but regular chives and chopped scallion works too. Cilantro is optional.
Dipping sauce. I am a barbarian, I like hot and salty. What works for me is equal parts soy sauce, oyster sauce, chilipaste, and dark vinegar, with a little sugar and finely minced ginger mixed in. If it's too stiff, add some Louisiana hot sauce. You do not really need a dip for the wontons, but it is always fun to play with your food.
ASSEMBLING WONTON NOODLE SOUP
It's supposed to be merely a snack and require only a small bowl, but after going through all the trouble of getting everything ready you aren't going to cook any other dishes.
So go ahead, use the big bowls.
Keep the broth on the back burner, below boiling temperature.
Heat up a large pot of water. When it boils, dump in the wonton. They're done when they all float. Scoop them out and apportion them in the bowls. Gently pour a sufficient quantity of hot broth over them. Put a porcelain soup spoon in each bowl, anchored by the wonton.
Blanch the noodles in the boiling water till toothsome. Immediately rinse them in cold water to stop them cooking any further. Place a skein on top of the wontons in the bowls, top off with a little more broth.
Add whatever else you feel necessary at this point, but it's fine already.
Garnish with chives, or scallion, and cilantro.
AFTER WORD
Why so specific an order to the soup assembly? Why not cook the noodles and wontons IN the broth?
There are two very good reasons. The first one is that the wonton and the noodles have different cooking times. The second reason is that you do not want the starches that adhere to either the noodles or the wontons to muddy-up your fine broth.
Additionally, it just looks better if the wontons and the noodles form distinct areas in your bowl. That's why the dark green of scallions are a better garnish than the garlic chives commonly used - they're more dramatic, more visually appealing.
For the same reason, three thin slices of charsiu fanned out on top are also pleasing.
Sunday, January 6, 2013
Friday, January 4, 2013
PORK VINDALOO
Recipe originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2013/01/vindaloo.html.
PORK VINDALOO
2 Lbs. pork, cut into large cubes.
2 Large onions.
Minced garlic and ginger as you think fit.
1 TBS. ground cumin.
1 TBS. cayenne.
1 Tsp. ground coriander.
1 Tsp. ground black pepper.
1 Tsp. sugar.
1 Tsp. salt.
½ Tsp. cinnamon powder.
½ Tsp. turmeric.
Generous pinch of sugar.
One cup vinegar.
Hefty squeeze of lime or lemon juice.
Fresh cilantro.
Ghee, or any reasonable alternative.
A few whole red chilies, either fresh or dried.
Six green cardamom pods.
Three or four whole cloves.
Mix the vinegar and ground spices with the garlic, ginger, salt, and sugar. Massage this into the pork, and set it in the refrigerator for several hours.
Then chop the onions fine, and fry them in plenty of ghee or oil till golden, mooshing with a spatula as you go.
Cast the marinating pork into a sieve with a vessel underneath to catch the juices.
When most of the liquid has drained, add the meat to the pan and sear it well, turning with the spatula to ensure that the spices are also cooked. Then add the retained juices, and water to sparingly cover (approximately one cup), as well as the whole chilies, cardamom, and cloves, and simmer for about an hour on low, by which time the pork should be tender and the oil slightly separating.
Add the squeeze of lime juice and plenty chopped cilantro just before serving, and put the boiled rice and the condiments on the table at the same time.
If you wish, you can go kinda berserk with the garlic, and I wouldn't worry too much about the quantity of grease. It usually takes me one to two sticks of butter and a dash of olive oil to get this right. Besides, I add sambal ulek (red chili paste from a jar, either Indonesian or Dutch) to the pan when adding the meat, because it gives it a deeper, browner flavour.
A tablespoon or two of good sharp mustard added to the marinade is highly recommended, but in no way authentic.
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2013/01/vindaloo.html.
PORK VINDALOO
2 Lbs. pork, cut into large cubes.
2 Large onions.
Minced garlic and ginger as you think fit.
1 TBS. ground cumin.
1 TBS. cayenne.
1 Tsp. ground coriander.
1 Tsp. ground black pepper.
1 Tsp. sugar.
1 Tsp. salt.
½ Tsp. cinnamon powder.
½ Tsp. turmeric.
Generous pinch of sugar.
One cup vinegar.
Hefty squeeze of lime or lemon juice.
Fresh cilantro.
Ghee, or any reasonable alternative.
A few whole red chilies, either fresh or dried.
Six green cardamom pods.
Three or four whole cloves.
Mix the vinegar and ground spices with the garlic, ginger, salt, and sugar. Massage this into the pork, and set it in the refrigerator for several hours.
Then chop the onions fine, and fry them in plenty of ghee or oil till golden, mooshing with a spatula as you go.
Cast the marinating pork into a sieve with a vessel underneath to catch the juices.
When most of the liquid has drained, add the meat to the pan and sear it well, turning with the spatula to ensure that the spices are also cooked. Then add the retained juices, and water to sparingly cover (approximately one cup), as well as the whole chilies, cardamom, and cloves, and simmer for about an hour on low, by which time the pork should be tender and the oil slightly separating.
Add the squeeze of lime juice and plenty chopped cilantro just before serving, and put the boiled rice and the condiments on the table at the same time.
If you wish, you can go kinda berserk with the garlic, and I wouldn't worry too much about the quantity of grease. It usually takes me one to two sticks of butter and a dash of olive oil to get this right. Besides, I add sambal ulek (red chili paste from a jar, either Indonesian or Dutch) to the pan when adding the meat, because it gives it a deeper, browner flavour.
A tablespoon or two of good sharp mustard added to the marinade is highly recommended, but in no way authentic.
Thursday, January 3, 2013
JERUSALEM KUGEL
This was originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/11/rabbi-boyarski-and-strange-mental.html
JERUSALEM KUGEL
Half a pound fine or medium noodles.
Half a cup sugar.
Quarter cup oil.
One teaspoon ground pepper.
Quarter teaspoon salt.
Three eggs, slightly beaten.
Preheat your oven at 350 degrees.
Cook the noodles till tender in a large pot of salted water. Drain and cool.
Heat the oil and carefully add the half of the sugar. When the sugar turns colour (caramelizes), remove from heat and stir to keep it from burning, then promptly add the noodles, remaining sugar, salt, and pepper, and mix together. When it is cold enough, mix in the eggs. Gloop it all into a greased pyrex dish, and place it in the oven for an hour or so, till gilded and crisped on top.
The amount of pepper can be increased. Raisins can be added but are not orthodox.
Note that perfect caramel is a beautiful ruddy hue, whereas anything noticeably darker verges on burnt.
Let it sit for while before serving.
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/11/rabbi-boyarski-and-strange-mental.html
JERUSALEM KUGEL
Half a pound fine or medium noodles.
Half a cup sugar.
Quarter cup oil.
One teaspoon ground pepper.
Quarter teaspoon salt.
Three eggs, slightly beaten.
Preheat your oven at 350 degrees.
Cook the noodles till tender in a large pot of salted water. Drain and cool.
Heat the oil and carefully add the half of the sugar. When the sugar turns colour (caramelizes), remove from heat and stir to keep it from burning, then promptly add the noodles, remaining sugar, salt, and pepper, and mix together. When it is cold enough, mix in the eggs. Gloop it all into a greased pyrex dish, and place it in the oven for an hour or so, till gilded and crisped on top.
The amount of pepper can be increased. Raisins can be added but are not orthodox.
Note that perfect caramel is a beautiful ruddy hue, whereas anything noticeably darker verges on burnt.
Let it sit for while before serving.
APPLE SAUCE NOODLE KUGEL
This was originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/11/rabbi-boyarski-and-strange-mental.html
APPLE SAUCE NOODLE KUGEL
Half a pound fine or medium noodles.
Half a cup sugar.
Two cups (1 pint) sour cream.
Two cups (16 fl.oz) applesauce.
Quarter cup raisins.
Pinches cinnamon, dry ginger, ground cardamom, salt.
4 eggs, slightly beaten.
Butter.
Cook the noodles till tender in a large pot of salted water. Drain and cool.
Mix all ingredients together. Gloop it all into a greased pyrex dish. Dot with butter.
place it in the oven for an hour or so.
Three hundred and fifty degrees.
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/11/rabbi-boyarski-and-strange-mental.html
APPLE SAUCE NOODLE KUGEL
Half a pound fine or medium noodles.
Half a cup sugar.
Two cups (1 pint) sour cream.
Two cups (16 fl.oz) applesauce.
Quarter cup raisins.
Pinches cinnamon, dry ginger, ground cardamom, salt.
4 eggs, slightly beaten.
Butter.
Cook the noodles till tender in a large pot of salted water. Drain and cool.
Mix all ingredients together. Gloop it all into a greased pyrex dish. Dot with butter.
place it in the oven for an hour or so.
Three hundred and fifty degrees.
PEPPER CRUSTED LAMB CHOPS
A small meal to share with a carnivore.
Alluded to in this post:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/08/unspeakable-love-lamb-chops.html.
PEPPER CRUSTED LAMB CHOPS
[With sautéed asparagus]
For each lamb chop, crack one teaspoon or more peppercorns coarsely. Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of ground coriander. Rub each chop with olive oil, and dip - dab - sprinkle the cracked pepper over the chops.
Heat up the skillet with a little oil till starting to smoke.
Brown the chops boldly on one side, on high.
Flip over, and after a a few seconds turn the heat down slightly, cook a little longer than the first side.
Remove to a platter and let them rest a bit.
There will be little bits of darkened pepper and other crud left in the pan, which you should probably just pour it out and wipe, rather than deglazing.
While the chops are resting, blanch a trimmed bunch of asparagus in boiling salt water with a splash vinegar to preserve colour for two minutes, then rinse under cold in a sieve or colander after they've cooked for two minutes, to stop the cooking. Sauté on high with some slivered ginger, flame with a generous splash of sherry. When the bubbling subsides, add a little freshly chopped parsley or cilantro to the pan, swirl, and decant to a plate.
A lemon-caper sauce (lemon juice, capers, butter), or a mustard glaze with broth added after sizzling the mustard - these go well with both the meat and the vegetable. Minced fresh herbs or paprika may be added to either.
Serve with a simple cucumber salad (sprinkle salt, dash of fresh ground pepper, squeeze of lemon juice, drizzle olive oil, and a pinch of sugar), and either boiled rice or warm crusty French bread.
Alluded to in this post:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/08/unspeakable-love-lamb-chops.html.
PEPPER CRUSTED LAMB CHOPS
[With sautéed asparagus]
For each lamb chop, crack one teaspoon or more peppercorns coarsely. Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of ground coriander. Rub each chop with olive oil, and dip - dab - sprinkle the cracked pepper over the chops.
Heat up the skillet with a little oil till starting to smoke.
Brown the chops boldly on one side, on high.
Flip over, and after a a few seconds turn the heat down slightly, cook a little longer than the first side.
Remove to a platter and let them rest a bit.
There will be little bits of darkened pepper and other crud left in the pan, which you should probably just pour it out and wipe, rather than deglazing.
While the chops are resting, blanch a trimmed bunch of asparagus in boiling salt water with a splash vinegar to preserve colour for two minutes, then rinse under cold in a sieve or colander after they've cooked for two minutes, to stop the cooking. Sauté on high with some slivered ginger, flame with a generous splash of sherry. When the bubbling subsides, add a little freshly chopped parsley or cilantro to the pan, swirl, and decant to a plate.
A lemon-caper sauce (lemon juice, capers, butter), or a mustard glaze with broth added after sizzling the mustard - these go well with both the meat and the vegetable. Minced fresh herbs or paprika may be added to either.
Serve with a simple cucumber salad (sprinkle salt, dash of fresh ground pepper, squeeze of lemon juice, drizzle olive oil, and a pinch of sugar), and either boiled rice or warm crusty French bread.
STEAMED FATTY PORK - 蒸五花腩 (TSING NG FAA YUK
Probably the easiest Cantonese home-cooked preparation, but it does require other dishes alongside to ameliorate the sheer delicious greasiness.
Note that the cut called five flower brisket (五花腩 ng-faa naam) is the lovely streaky-in-alternating-layers cut that the Cantonese aunties are eyeing hungrily at the butcher shop just off of Stockton Street.
The Chinese Hospital is nearby.
Maybe not a coincidence.
STEAMED FIVE FLOWER PORK 蒸五花腩
One pound five flower pork, cut into large chunks.
One TBS. shrimp paste (鹹蝦醬 haahm ha jeung).
One TBS. tomato ketchup (optional).
One large thumblength ginger, coarsely slivered.
Pinches salt, sugar, five spice powder.
Rub the shrimp paste and ketchup over the meat. Place in a roomy shallow bowl, sprinkly the pinches over, and strew the ginger on top.
Steam for slightly over an hour and a half.
A dash of rice wine or cooking sherry may be added before placing this in the steamer.
In any case, the juices rendered by the cooking process are perhaps the most delightful thing about this dish.
Note that the cut called five flower brisket (五花腩 ng-faa naam) is the lovely streaky-in-alternating-layers cut that the Cantonese aunties are eyeing hungrily at the butcher shop just off of Stockton Street.
The Chinese Hospital is nearby.
Maybe not a coincidence.
STEAMED FIVE FLOWER PORK 蒸五花腩
One pound five flower pork, cut into large chunks.
One TBS. shrimp paste (鹹蝦醬 haahm ha jeung).
One TBS. tomato ketchup (optional).
One large thumblength ginger, coarsely slivered.
Pinches salt, sugar, five spice powder.
Rub the shrimp paste and ketchup over the meat. Place in a roomy shallow bowl, sprinkly the pinches over, and strew the ginger on top.
Steam for slightly over an hour and a half.
A dash of rice wine or cooking sherry may be added before placing this in the steamer.
In any case, the juices rendered by the cooking process are perhaps the most delightful thing about this dish.
MUI CHOI KAU YUK (梅菜扣肉) - STEAMED SALT VEGETABLE MEAT
Pig belly bacon with Chinese sauerkraut.
Originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/07/mui-choi-kau-yuk-steamed-salt-vegetable.html.
Also called kau yoke, kou yiuk, or various other phonetic renderings of the Chinese characters. Very popular in Hawaii and on the West Coast.
梅菜扣肉 MUI CHOI KAU YUK
1¼ to 1¾ Lbs. ng-fa naam (五花腩 five flower pork brisket).
Three scallion, two inch lengths.
Three slices of ginger.
Three cloves garlic, smashed.
A large handful of mui choi (梅菜 plum vegetable).
One whole star-anise (baat gok 八角).
A pinch of five spice powder ((五香粉 ng-heung fun).
4-5 TBS. soy sauce.
2 TBS. sherry.
1 TBS. sugar.
Note that mui choi comes in semi-dry vacuum sealed packs as well as canned in brine. So the quantity necessary is best estimated at one quarter to one third of the meat after soaking and rinsing. Or more, depending on your own preference.
The brine version is easier for guesswork, but not necessarily recommended.
Either can be used.
Soak the mui choi for an hour or so in plenty of water, then rinse very thoroughly, drain, and squeeze out excess liquid. This removes sand, grit, and salt.
Chop it small.
Scrub the skin side of the meat with salt to clean it, then simmer it whole for ten minutes in water with the ginger and scallion to pre-cook and 'melt' some of the fat. Remove, drain, dry. Reserve a little of the liquid for the sauce.
Use an ice-pick or a sharp fork to prick holes in the skin, rub a little soy sauce over that side only, and let it sit for a while.
Heat oil in a skillet and carefully slide the meat in, skin-side down. Beware of the oil erupting - it is best to have a spatter-guard or a lid handy. Fry the meat till the skin-side is nicely darkened, almost mahogany.
Remove, drain, and let cool.
When the meat is cold enough to handle, slice it inch-thick across, each piece having all layers including the skin.
Arrange it in a broad bowl, skin-side up. Whisk the soy sauce, sherry, and sugar together and pour HALF of this over the meat, along with the star anise and pinch of five spice powder. Put the bowl in the steamer, and steam for an hour.
Now gild the garlic in a modicum of oil, add the chopped mui choi to parch. Pour in the other half of the soy sauce - sherry - sugar mixture, plus any liquid saved from the blanching at the beginning, and bring to a boil.
Pour this over the meat, making sure that most of the mui choi goes around the meat rather than on top.
Steam for another thirty minutes, or somewhat longer.
A little chopped scallion and shredded ginger to finish, and it can be served.
Originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/07/mui-choi-kau-yuk-steamed-salt-vegetable.html.
Also called kau yoke, kou yiuk, or various other phonetic renderings of the Chinese characters. Very popular in Hawaii and on the West Coast.
梅菜扣肉 MUI CHOI KAU YUK
1¼ to 1¾ Lbs. ng-fa naam (五花腩 five flower pork brisket).
Three scallion, two inch lengths.
Three slices of ginger.
Three cloves garlic, smashed.
A large handful of mui choi (梅菜 plum vegetable).
One whole star-anise (baat gok 八角).
A pinch of five spice powder ((五香粉 ng-heung fun).
4-5 TBS. soy sauce.
2 TBS. sherry.
1 TBS. sugar.
Note that mui choi comes in semi-dry vacuum sealed packs as well as canned in brine. So the quantity necessary is best estimated at one quarter to one third of the meat after soaking and rinsing. Or more, depending on your own preference.
The brine version is easier for guesswork, but not necessarily recommended.
Either can be used.
Soak the mui choi for an hour or so in plenty of water, then rinse very thoroughly, drain, and squeeze out excess liquid. This removes sand, grit, and salt.
Chop it small.
Scrub the skin side of the meat with salt to clean it, then simmer it whole for ten minutes in water with the ginger and scallion to pre-cook and 'melt' some of the fat. Remove, drain, dry. Reserve a little of the liquid for the sauce.
Use an ice-pick or a sharp fork to prick holes in the skin, rub a little soy sauce over that side only, and let it sit for a while.
Heat oil in a skillet and carefully slide the meat in, skin-side down. Beware of the oil erupting - it is best to have a spatter-guard or a lid handy. Fry the meat till the skin-side is nicely darkened, almost mahogany.
Remove, drain, and let cool.
When the meat is cold enough to handle, slice it inch-thick across, each piece having all layers including the skin.
Arrange it in a broad bowl, skin-side up. Whisk the soy sauce, sherry, and sugar together and pour HALF of this over the meat, along with the star anise and pinch of five spice powder. Put the bowl in the steamer, and steam for an hour.
Now gild the garlic in a modicum of oil, add the chopped mui choi to parch. Pour in the other half of the soy sauce - sherry - sugar mixture, plus any liquid saved from the blanching at the beginning, and bring to a boil.
Pour this over the meat, making sure that most of the mui choi goes around the meat rather than on top.
Steam for another thirty minutes, or somewhat longer.
A little chopped scallion and shredded ginger to finish, and it can be served.
CANTONESE ROAST GOOSE
Recipe originally published here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/12/cantonese-roast-goose.html
燒鵝 SIU NGOH - ROAST GOOSE
Trim -- wash -- dry -- roast.
Chop, and eat.
Simple.
Purchase your fresh goose a few days in advance of dinner. When you've got him home, trim off the excess flaps of fat at the neck and reserve, and tip the wings, as the extreme ends of these are virtually useless and will char in the oven.
Save all this for broth and extracting the delicious fat.
Remove the neck and pack of giblets from the cavity.
These can be used as you see fit (goose stock).
Place the goose in a deep pan with a rack.
Now heat a cauldron with water, soy sauce, and sugar or honey.
Proportions: for every cup of water, one to two TBS each soy sauce and sugar or honey. In HK cooks would use Maltose, but that is a bit hard to find over here.
Add whole star anise and a jigger of black vinegar if you feel like it.
Bring to a roiling boil.
Ladle this over the bird, making sure to pour it over the skin entire.
Decant the liquid from the deep pan back into the cauldron, and bring it back to boil. Repeat the procedure. This tightens the skin, which will help it become crisp. The soy sauce adds a little flavour, the sugar or honey will let it brown evenly and deeply, when one or two days hence it is being roasted.
[When doing this to fowl, I usually add a few thick slices of ginger. You may also add a handful of fresh-roasted coffee beans - the ghostly remaining hint on the bird will add a haunting and mysterious fragrance, without dominating the taste.]
There is no set number of washings with the hot liquid, but do it at least once.
You will see the skin tightening up, and three times is probably best.
When this has been done, shove the largest size funnel you have into the rear of the bird, then set it upright so that no part of the skin need touch anything, and place it in your refrigerator for a day or two to dry.
If you do not have an extra large kitchen funnel, make do -- an empty whiskey or brandy bottle will also work, as long as the outer surface of the bird is clear.
On the day when you wish to eat the beast, take it out of the refrigerator and heat the oven up to four hundred and twenty five degrees Fahrenheit (220 grades of Celsius, more or less).
Bung the bird in the oven, and roast for about an hour and three quarters.
Which is about twelve minutes per pound.
You will use a rack, of course, and rotate the bird a couple of times. For the first hour of roasting, it might be best to cover with aluminium foil to prevent excessive darkening.
If, at the end of cooking, there are parts which still look pale, it is perfectly all right to "retouch" those areas with the kitchen torch.
Assuming that you have such a thing.
Remove the bird from the oven, and let it stand for about thirty minutes.
To serve, either waste a lot of time carving it, for an American - British - European presentation, or place it on the block and chop it Chinese style, which is much more efficient, and a hell of a lot easier.
Remember, chopstickable pieces!
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/12/cantonese-roast-goose.html
燒鵝 SIU NGOH - ROAST GOOSE
Trim -- wash -- dry -- roast.
Chop, and eat.
Simple.
Purchase your fresh goose a few days in advance of dinner. When you've got him home, trim off the excess flaps of fat at the neck and reserve, and tip the wings, as the extreme ends of these are virtually useless and will char in the oven.
Save all this for broth and extracting the delicious fat.
Remove the neck and pack of giblets from the cavity.
These can be used as you see fit (goose stock).
Place the goose in a deep pan with a rack.
Now heat a cauldron with water, soy sauce, and sugar or honey.
Proportions: for every cup of water, one to two TBS each soy sauce and sugar or honey. In HK cooks would use Maltose, but that is a bit hard to find over here.
Add whole star anise and a jigger of black vinegar if you feel like it.
Bring to a roiling boil.
Ladle this over the bird, making sure to pour it over the skin entire.
Decant the liquid from the deep pan back into the cauldron, and bring it back to boil. Repeat the procedure. This tightens the skin, which will help it become crisp. The soy sauce adds a little flavour, the sugar or honey will let it brown evenly and deeply, when one or two days hence it is being roasted.
[When doing this to fowl, I usually add a few thick slices of ginger. You may also add a handful of fresh-roasted coffee beans - the ghostly remaining hint on the bird will add a haunting and mysterious fragrance, without dominating the taste.]
There is no set number of washings with the hot liquid, but do it at least once.
You will see the skin tightening up, and three times is probably best.
When this has been done, shove the largest size funnel you have into the rear of the bird, then set it upright so that no part of the skin need touch anything, and place it in your refrigerator for a day or two to dry.
If you do not have an extra large kitchen funnel, make do -- an empty whiskey or brandy bottle will also work, as long as the outer surface of the bird is clear.
On the day when you wish to eat the beast, take it out of the refrigerator and heat the oven up to four hundred and twenty five degrees Fahrenheit (220 grades of Celsius, more or less).
Bung the bird in the oven, and roast for about an hour and three quarters.
Which is about twelve minutes per pound.
You will use a rack, of course, and rotate the bird a couple of times. For the first hour of roasting, it might be best to cover with aluminium foil to prevent excessive darkening.
If, at the end of cooking, there are parts which still look pale, it is perfectly all right to "retouch" those areas with the kitchen torch.
Assuming that you have such a thing.
Remove the bird from the oven, and let it stand for about thirty minutes.
To serve, either waste a lot of time carving it, for an American - British - European presentation, or place it on the block and chop it Chinese style, which is much more efficient, and a hell of a lot easier.
Remember, chopstickable pieces!
Wednesday, January 2, 2013
STEAMED WATER EGG - JING SUI DAN 蒸水蛋
A simple egg dish which is very satisfying.
Originally here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/06/chinese-steamed-eggs.html.
蒸水蛋
TSING SUI DAN
["Steamed Water Egg"]
Three eggs.
Half or three quarters cup water.
Quarter cup chopped green onions or less.
Quarter cup whatever comes to hand: minced charsiu, chopped shrimp, sliced mushrooms, etc.
Pinch ground white pepper.
Additional:
A few drops sesame oil.
A few drops soy sauce.
Minced cilantro
Briskly stir the eggs with the water, add the green onions and the charsiu, shrimp, etcetera.
Plus the pinch of pepper.
Pour into an oiled pyrex pie plate (or something of similar shape), and place in a steamer over furiously boiling water.
Steam for about ten minutes. Once gelled it is done.
Garnish and serve.
Notes:
Use more water for a softer custard (up to a full cup).
When the eggs are done, there will be a little water on top of the custard - this will facilitate distributing the sesame oil and soy sauce evenly. Just gently swirl without tipping.
Often pei dan (皮蛋, 松花蛋 black preserved egg) is cut up and added, sometimes something from the salt-fish category is thrown in.
A little chopped ham or char-siu is also a good idea.
Originally here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/06/chinese-steamed-eggs.html.
蒸水蛋
TSING SUI DAN
["Steamed Water Egg"]
Three eggs.
Half or three quarters cup water.
Quarter cup chopped green onions or less.
Quarter cup whatever comes to hand: minced charsiu, chopped shrimp, sliced mushrooms, etc.
Pinch ground white pepper.
Additional:
A few drops sesame oil.
A few drops soy sauce.
Minced cilantro
Briskly stir the eggs with the water, add the green onions and the charsiu, shrimp, etcetera.
Plus the pinch of pepper.
Pour into an oiled pyrex pie plate (or something of similar shape), and place in a steamer over furiously boiling water.
Steam for about ten minutes. Once gelled it is done.
Garnish and serve.
Notes:
Use more water for a softer custard (up to a full cup).
When the eggs are done, there will be a little water on top of the custard - this will facilitate distributing the sesame oil and soy sauce evenly. Just gently swirl without tipping.
Often pei dan (皮蛋, 松花蛋 black preserved egg) is cut up and added, sometimes something from the salt-fish category is thrown in.
A little chopped ham or char-siu is also a good idea.
CHINESE POACHED FISH (蒸魚 JING YÜ)
Originally described here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/02/poached-fish-steamed-fish.html.
蒸魚
POACHED FISH CHINESE STYLE
Purchase a live fish of between one and two pounds, and bring it home.
Smack it over the head with a heavy object, gut it, clean it, scrape it, and rinse.
If it is particularly thick, slash it on both sides.
Bring a large cauldron half-filled with water to a roiling boil.
Slip the fish in, and when it boils again, lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for two minutes.
Turn off the heat and let it sit for between seven and ten minutes (depending on how large your fish is), at which point it will be done just right.
Remove to a platter and strew very finely slivered ginger over.
Heat up a little oil in a fry-pan, and sauté a little coarse-chopped garlic. Add a splash sherry or rice wine, a drizzle soy sauce, followed by a hefty pinch of sugar. Boil briefly together, then pour over the fish.
Add some cilantro and shredded green onion.
Serve.
As an alternative, you can steam the fish.
After gutting, cleaning, scraping, and rinsing, rub it with a little oil (sesame and plain oil mixed) and place it on a plate. Whether you add sliced ginger, cut scallion, or even slivers of green chilipepper around it, is up to you - these will aromatize the fish, but as you plan to discard the steaming juices anyway, they are not really germane.
Bring a large steamer to a boil, set the plate therein, and steam for about seven to ten minutes, according to the size of the fish.
Undercooking is best, as once you remove it from the steamer the heat remaining in the flesh will continue to affect it.
When you take the fish out, slide it onto a clean plate.
Garnish with shredded ginger and scallion, and pour a little sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis) over.
Fish either steamed or poached, with some stirfried kailan or yuenchoy, a few pieces of boiled potato avec persil, and plain white rice, is a feast.
As with everything, a dab of chilipaste on the side is nice, but not necessary.
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/02/poached-fish-steamed-fish.html.
蒸魚
POACHED FISH CHINESE STYLE
Purchase a live fish of between one and two pounds, and bring it home.
Smack it over the head with a heavy object, gut it, clean it, scrape it, and rinse.
If it is particularly thick, slash it on both sides.
Bring a large cauldron half-filled with water to a roiling boil.
Slip the fish in, and when it boils again, lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for two minutes.
Turn off the heat and let it sit for between seven and ten minutes (depending on how large your fish is), at which point it will be done just right.
Remove to a platter and strew very finely slivered ginger over.
Heat up a little oil in a fry-pan, and sauté a little coarse-chopped garlic. Add a splash sherry or rice wine, a drizzle soy sauce, followed by a hefty pinch of sugar. Boil briefly together, then pour over the fish.
Add some cilantro and shredded green onion.
Serve.
As an alternative, you can steam the fish.
After gutting, cleaning, scraping, and rinsing, rub it with a little oil (sesame and plain oil mixed) and place it on a plate. Whether you add sliced ginger, cut scallion, or even slivers of green chilipepper around it, is up to you - these will aromatize the fish, but as you plan to discard the steaming juices anyway, they are not really germane.
Bring a large steamer to a boil, set the plate therein, and steam for about seven to ten minutes, according to the size of the fish.
Undercooking is best, as once you remove it from the steamer the heat remaining in the flesh will continue to affect it.
When you take the fish out, slide it onto a clean plate.
Garnish with shredded ginger and scallion, and pour a little sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis) over.
Fish either steamed or poached, with some stirfried kailan or yuenchoy, a few pieces of boiled potato avec persil, and plain white rice, is a feast.
As with everything, a dab of chilipaste on the side is nice, but not necessary.
CHETTINAD GOAT CURRY
Recipe originally published here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-delicious-whale.html
CHETTINAD GOAT
Two pounds goat.
Four onions.
One thumblength ginger.
Four or five garlic cloves.
One TBS. ground coriander.
One TBS. cayenne.
Half Tsp. turmeric.
Half Tsp. mustard seeds (black).
Half Tsp. cumin seeds (jeerakam).
Half Tsp. fennel seeds (perinjeerakam).
Half Tsp. cinnamon powder.
Half Tsp. salt.
Four or five green cardamom pods, three or four whole cloves, a dozen whole peppercorns, and a bay leaf or two.
Two TBS. tamarind juice. Half a dozen Roma tomatoes, or two beefsteak tomatoes.
Four or five fresh green chilies, finely minced.
Cut the meat into chunks, dry-roast the spices as appropriate. Grind two of the onions with the ginger, garlic, and all spices plus the salt, EXCEPT the bay leaves, cardamon pods, and mustard seeds, to a paste. Stir the tamarind water into this, and rub it all over the meat. Let this sit in the refrigerator for an hour or so to absorb flavours and tenderize.
Chop the tomatoes.
In a roomy pan or chetty fry the mustard seeds briefly in ghee or oil, add the remaining onion, cardamom pods, and the minced green chili, and sauté till nicely golden. Add the chopped tomatoes, cook till soft.
Then add the meat and its marinating paste, and cook till the moisture has dissipated and the oil separated. This, by the way, is the key to developing a good flavour, hence the need for a roomy pan or chetty - you do not want to crowd the chunks of meat.
Add water to cover, plus bay leaves, and simmer on low for about an hour. You may substitute coconut milk for some of the water. Stir it occasionally, and when the meat seems tender enough, remove from the heat. You may fish out the cardamom pods and bay leaves it this point.
Garnish liberally with cilantro, and serve with chapatis or steamed rice, as well as fresh chilies and lime wedges on the side.
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-delicious-whale.html
CHETTINAD GOAT
Two pounds goat.
Four onions.
One thumblength ginger.
Four or five garlic cloves.
One TBS. ground coriander.
One TBS. cayenne.
Half Tsp. turmeric.
Half Tsp. mustard seeds (black).
Half Tsp. cumin seeds (jeerakam).
Half Tsp. fennel seeds (perinjeerakam).
Half Tsp. cinnamon powder.
Half Tsp. salt.
Four or five green cardamom pods, three or four whole cloves, a dozen whole peppercorns, and a bay leaf or two.
Two TBS. tamarind juice. Half a dozen Roma tomatoes, or two beefsteak tomatoes.
Four or five fresh green chilies, finely minced.
Cut the meat into chunks, dry-roast the spices as appropriate. Grind two of the onions with the ginger, garlic, and all spices plus the salt, EXCEPT the bay leaves, cardamon pods, and mustard seeds, to a paste. Stir the tamarind water into this, and rub it all over the meat. Let this sit in the refrigerator for an hour or so to absorb flavours and tenderize.
Chop the tomatoes.
In a roomy pan or chetty fry the mustard seeds briefly in ghee or oil, add the remaining onion, cardamom pods, and the minced green chili, and sauté till nicely golden. Add the chopped tomatoes, cook till soft.
Then add the meat and its marinating paste, and cook till the moisture has dissipated and the oil separated. This, by the way, is the key to developing a good flavour, hence the need for a roomy pan or chetty - you do not want to crowd the chunks of meat.
Add water to cover, plus bay leaves, and simmer on low for about an hour. You may substitute coconut milk for some of the water. Stir it occasionally, and when the meat seems tender enough, remove from the heat. You may fish out the cardamom pods and bay leaves it this point.
Garnish liberally with cilantro, and serve with chapatis or steamed rice, as well as fresh chilies and lime wedges on the side.
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
RED-STEWED SEA CUCUMBER - HONG SIU HOI SAM
An unusual edible outside of the Chinese world, yet very well worth it.
Originally written about here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/10/sea-cucumber-soaking-and-braising.html.
紅燒海參
Red-Stewed (Braised) Sea Cucumber
Ingredients:
One or two softened sea cucumbers sliced into large chunks across.
3 spring onions, chopped large.
3 slices ginger.
Quarter cup Sherry.
1½ cups chicken stock.
6 dried black mushrooms, soaked till soft, stemmed and cut in half.
One TBS oyster sauce.
One TBS soy sauce.
One Tsp. sugar.
1 TBS cornstarch dissolved in one TBS cold water.
Drizzle of black vinegar.
Drizzle of sesame oil.
Put some oil in the wok and sauté the ginger and spring onions. Seethe with the sherry, and add the chicken stock and sea cucumbers. Cook on medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and a careful drizzle of black vinegar, the turn the heat low and simmer for about ten minutes.
Stir in the corn starch water and add a jigger more sherry. Add the sesame oil for fragrance, and when the liquid turns velvety, decant onto a serving dish.
This recipe can be modified by including meats or vegetables, and the sauce improved by judicious additions. The horizon is endless.
But as the main appeal is the savouriness of the sauce as absorbed by the main ingredient, it is wise not to go crazy.
Keep it simple.
The merest pinch of five spice powder might not be misplaced.
Some freshly ground white pepper can also be added.
Cilantro as a garnish is a nice touch.
海參
Hoi Sam
Sea cucumber (or trepang) is a Holothurid, lacks a formal brain or central nervous system, and is rather primitive. They are nutritious, and considered tonifying for middle-aged and elderly folks, especially good for people with arthritis and high blood pressure. Their main appeal is that besides a pleasant gelatinous texture, they absorb flavourings and sauces nicely.
When harvested, sea cucumber is usually gutted and cleaned, horny parts trimmed, then simmered briefly in salted water before being rolled in ashes and dried till shrunk and hard. It should keep nearly forever in that state.
To prepare dried sea cucumber for the pot needs a bit of pre-prep.
Place dried sea cucumber in a pot of water and soak for twelve hours. Change water, and simmer for two an hour or two with some slices of dried ginger, let it cool. Remove and rinse. Clean the outside with the vegetable brush, and remove any hard parts or placques of calcined tissue near the outer surface. Then place it in freshly simmering water with a pinch of sugar and a few slices of ginger. Let it cool, and place the container in the refrigerator. The next day dump out the water and refill with cold water.
Repeat as needed, which for smaller sea cucumbers may be three days soaking total. Larger sea cucumbers may require up to four or five days of soaking with daily changes of water.
When it has softened and doubled in size, which will usually be the third day, remove and rinse.
Open it up and make sure that no sand or grit remains in the cavity.
Originally written about here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/10/sea-cucumber-soaking-and-braising.html.
紅燒海參
Red-Stewed (Braised) Sea Cucumber
Ingredients:
One or two softened sea cucumbers sliced into large chunks across.
3 spring onions, chopped large.
3 slices ginger.
Quarter cup Sherry.
1½ cups chicken stock.
6 dried black mushrooms, soaked till soft, stemmed and cut in half.
One TBS oyster sauce.
One TBS soy sauce.
One Tsp. sugar.
1 TBS cornstarch dissolved in one TBS cold water.
Drizzle of black vinegar.
Drizzle of sesame oil.
Put some oil in the wok and sauté the ginger and spring onions. Seethe with the sherry, and add the chicken stock and sea cucumbers. Cook on medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and a careful drizzle of black vinegar, the turn the heat low and simmer for about ten minutes.
Stir in the corn starch water and add a jigger more sherry. Add the sesame oil for fragrance, and when the liquid turns velvety, decant onto a serving dish.
This recipe can be modified by including meats or vegetables, and the sauce improved by judicious additions. The horizon is endless.
But as the main appeal is the savouriness of the sauce as absorbed by the main ingredient, it is wise not to go crazy.
Keep it simple.
The merest pinch of five spice powder might not be misplaced.
Some freshly ground white pepper can also be added.
Cilantro as a garnish is a nice touch.
海參
Hoi Sam
Sea cucumber (or trepang) is a Holothurid, lacks a formal brain or central nervous system, and is rather primitive. They are nutritious, and considered tonifying for middle-aged and elderly folks, especially good for people with arthritis and high blood pressure. Their main appeal is that besides a pleasant gelatinous texture, they absorb flavourings and sauces nicely.
When harvested, sea cucumber is usually gutted and cleaned, horny parts trimmed, then simmered briefly in salted water before being rolled in ashes and dried till shrunk and hard. It should keep nearly forever in that state.
To prepare dried sea cucumber for the pot needs a bit of pre-prep.
Place dried sea cucumber in a pot of water and soak for twelve hours. Change water, and simmer for two an hour or two with some slices of dried ginger, let it cool. Remove and rinse. Clean the outside with the vegetable brush, and remove any hard parts or placques of calcined tissue near the outer surface. Then place it in freshly simmering water with a pinch of sugar and a few slices of ginger. Let it cool, and place the container in the refrigerator. The next day dump out the water and refill with cold water.
Repeat as needed, which for smaller sea cucumbers may be three days soaking total. Larger sea cucumbers may require up to four or five days of soaking with daily changes of water.
When it has softened and doubled in size, which will usually be the third day, remove and rinse.
Open it up and make sure that no sand or grit remains in the cavity.
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