Monday, November 3, 2014



Two cups long grain rice.
Two cups chicken stock.
One small onion, chopped.
One can of tomatoes (more or less two cups).
One or two Scotch Bonnet chilies.
Four TBS tomato paste.
A bouillon cube.
One Tsp. dried shrimp powder.
One Tsp. salt.
Very generous pinches dried thyme and curry powder.
Small pinches nutmeg and dried ginger.
Small pinch cinnamon powder (optional).
A little minced fresh ginger (optional).

Lightly parboil the rice. Drain, rinse under cold water, set aside.
Empty the can of tomatoes into the blender, dump in the scotch bonnets, and whir smooth.

Add plenty of oil to a deep pot, saute the onion till translucent and beyond. Add the tomato and pepper puree, plus fresh ginger if using, stir to incorporate, and cook for about five minutes. Put in the tomato paste, crumble the bouillon cube into the pot, stir, and add the shrimp powder, salt, and pinched spices. Cook for another several minutes.
When the oil starts rising to the top, take nearly half of the resultant goo out of the pot and set it aside, but leave the onion fragments in. Add the stock to the pot, simmer a bit. Mix in the parboiled rice, and add water as needed so that there is liquid on top.
Put it on a low flame (use a heat-protector), and let the rice absorb the moisture for about fifteen minutes. When it's dry on top, mix in the reserved goo, and let it cook about five minutes longer.
It is done.

The reason why you remove some tomato stew when adding the rice is to decrease the chances of scorching and burning, and to allow a certain texture to develop in the grains.

Fried peanuts and hardboiled egg can be used to garnish if you find that necessary, but it's fine the way it is.

Originally posted here:

Thursday, October 30, 2014



Benodigd, voor de visballen:
Required, for the fishballs:

Twee pond lichte vis, zowel zee als zoetwater vis.
Two pounds of white fish, both fresh and saltwater.

2 Kleine uien, versnipperd.
2 Small onions, minced very fine.

6 - 7 Eetlepels matzemeel.
6 to 7 Tbs. Matzameal.

4 Eieren.
4 Eggs.

1 Eetlepel suiker.
One Tbs. Sugar.

2 Theelepel zout.
2 Tsp. Salt.

2 Theelepel peper.
Two Tsp. pepper.

Voor de soep:
For the soup:

Vier pond vissenkoppen, graten, en vel.
4 Pounds fishheads, scraps, bones, skin.

1 grote peen, geschraapt en gehakt.
A large carrot, cleaned and chopped.

4 stengels selderij, gehakt.
Four stalks of celery, chopped.

2 Kleine uien, gepeld.
Two onions, peeled.


Hak de vis erg fijn. Meng er doorheen: ui, matzemeel, eieren, suiker, zout en peper.
Chop the fish finely. Mix with the minced onion, matzameal, eggs, sugar, salt, and pepper.

Plaats de vismengsel in een kom en laat in de koelkast 1 uur rusten.
Place the fishmixture in a bowl, and let it rest one hour in the fridge.

Doe alle visresten, met peen, selderij, en ui in een kastrol, giet er genoeg water bij dat alles ruwweg 5 cm onder staat. Breng aan de kook en laat 15 minuten zachtjes (niet borrelend) koken.
Place all fishscrap materials, carrot, celery and the two peeled onions in a cauldron, add enough liguid that it stand under by roughly two inches. Raise to boil and simmer (do not allow to roil) for fifteen minutes.

Met vochtige handen ovalen ballen van het vismengsel vormen.
With damp hands form oval balls of the fishmixture.

Plaats de visballen voorzichtig in de hete vloeistof, bedeksel de pan, en laat de visballen 1 uur of ietwat langer sudderen. Lang garen heeft voordelen voor zowel de smaak als de structuur van de visballen. Let op dat de visbalen helemaal bedekt blijven met vloeistof, daar ze veel vocht opnemen. Voeg indien nodig wat (heet) water toe.
Place the fishballs carefully in the hot liquid, cover with the lid, and simmer for an hour or more. Long poaching improves both the taste and the structure of the fishballs. Check to make sure the balls remain inundated - they take up rather much moisture. If necessary add some (hot) water.

Neem de visballen met een spaan uit de pan en leg ze in een soep schaal.
Remove the fishballs with a slotted spoon from the pan, and place in a tureen.

Zeef het kookvocht, en schenk het over de visballen.
Strain the kooking liquid, and pour over the fishballs.

De gefilte fish is, mits bewaard in het kookvocht, ten minste 3 dagen in de koelkast houdbaar.
Gefilte fish, submerged in cooking liquid, can be kept for at least three days in the refrigerator.

Geef er mierikswortel (chrein) bij.
Serve with horseradish.

Het gerecht mag met de gekookte peen (gesneden of gesnipperd) gegarneerd worden.
The dish may be garnished with the cooked carrot (sliced or minced).

Alzook peterselie.
As well as parsley.

Thursday, August 14, 2014


A typical Shanghainese meatball, but done more-or-less as they would do it in Hong Kong.

[Shanghai style lion heads in soup]

For the balls:

One pound ground pork.
Three rashers bacon, chopped.
Five or six matai (water chestnuts), chopped.
Two TBS soy sauce.
Two TBS sugar.
One TBS sherry.
Half TBS sesame oil.
One green onion, chopped.
One thumb of ginger, minced.
Two to three cloves garlic, minced.
Two eggs, beaten.
Four TBS cornstarch.
Pinch of five spice powder.
Pinch of freshly ground pepper.

For the broth:

1 pound bokchoi, bases trimmed.
One or two slices of ginger.
One and a half cups of superior stock or broth.

Note: you can substitute quatre epices for the five spice, or a little ground nutmeg.

To prepare the lion heads, mix the pork, bacon, ginger, garlic, matai (馬蹄), and green onion. Work it over with a chef's knife or cleaver till it is considerably finer in texture than it was. Use the blade to scoop it into a bowl, and add the remaining ball-ingredients. Mix well. It should be sticky but on the firm side, not gloopy. If necessary add a little more cornstarch.
Form into four large balls.

Heat a layer of oil in a deep pan or wok. Place the meatballs herein, and colour all over; whether you roll them around or turn them is up to you. Do not cook through, merely brown the outside and firm them up.

Remove them to a casserole. Heat up the stock or broth and pour over the meatballs; it need not cover them. Simmer for about ten minutes or so before adding the bokchoi to cook alongside. When the stems have become tender and the leaves are wilted, the dish is done.

I like to cook large chunks of cucumber (peeled and seeded) with the meatballs and cabbage; I am a barbarian.

Serve each ball with some of the soup and vegetables.

First posted here:

Monday, August 4, 2014


[Golubtsi, Golumpki, Sarmale, Sarma.]

Two heads of cabbage.
Two pounds ground pork.
Two onions, finely chopped.
Two or three garlic cloves, finely chopped.
One cup of raw rice.
Two pounds of tomatoes.
Handful of fresh herbs.
Big pinch dried thyme.
One TBS paprika.
One Tsp. ground pepper.
Pinches salt, nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon.
Three or four bay leaves.
Jigger of sherry.
Juice of one lemon.

Chicken broth or good stock: 1½ - 2 cups.
Several rashers of smoked bacon, sliced.

Sautée the onions and garlic in a little olive oil. When they have become translucent and soft, add the paprika and cook for another minute or so, then set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, bring water to boil in a large pot . Core of the cabbages and when the water boils, dump the cabbage in. Peel off the leaves one by one as they start to get soft and put them on a plate. You need them soft and limp so that they can be rolled; this means painful fingertips. Trim off the stiffest parts.

When done, hold each tomato over an open flame with a fork, to char the skin and facilitate peeling, or blanch them in the boiling water to the same purpose. Personally, I prefer the fire method; it tastes better. Once peeled, core them and remove the pips. Then chop coarsely, and mix in whatever fresh herbs you judge suitable.

Mix the meat with the onions, garlic, rice, and powdered spices, plus a pinch of salt.

Put a spoonful of this mixture on a limp cabbage leaf and roll it up, tucking in the edges like a burrito or an eggroll. Whatever cabbage is left over should be chopped and put in the bottom of the pot. Arrange the cabbage rolls on top, add the bay leaves. Cover this with the chopped tomato, and add the stock, plus water to cover and the dash of sherry.
Dump the smoked bacon on top.
Squeeze the lemon over.

Place the vessel in the oven at 350 degrees for four hours, check on it occasionally.

A very large clay pot is perfect for making this, so is a large enameled Dutch oven or stew pot.

Two things to take note of: the rolls should be loose enough that the rice within can comfortably expand, and the pot should only be half-way filled for the same reason.
If the top surface of the tomato congeals a bit, that will concentrate the flavours, which is something you want.

Serve alongside potatoes or polenta.
Hot peppers, fresh or pickled, also belong on the table.

Originally from here:

Sunday, August 3, 2014


To make tiyula itum, meat chunks are rubbed with pamapa, then braised with fried onion and garlic. Turmeric, ginger, and galangal (langkuwas) are added, and after a little bit more simmering, liquid is poured in. It is cooked for ten more minutes and served with rice or ketupat.

[Pamapa: pounded spice; in this case, two cups of charred coconut meat, two to four stalks lemon grass (sae; sereh in Indonesian), and half a dozen cloves garlic, all pounded very fine and mixed with a little oil. Galangal: dwarf ginger, called Lengkuas in Indonesian and Malay, also known as langkuwas and lengkang. Lemon grass and galangal are signature ingredients in a lot of Indonesian and South-East Asian cooking. Ketupat, Katupat: compressed rice; rice cooked in leaf packets, which causes the grains to loose their individuality and become dense.]

Properly made, it will be blue-black, with a faint hint of a greenish hue due to the turmeric.

On lieu of charred coconut chunk, one can use shredded coconut, which is more easily come by in San Francisco.


Two pounds of goat or beef, chunked on the bone.
Two cups of grated coconut.
One onion, chopped.
Three stalks of lemon grass.
Six cloves garlic.
Three inches of ginger.
Three Tsp. turmeric.
One Tsp. galangal powder.
Half Tsp. dried ginger powder (non-standard!).
Half Tsp. ground pepper.
Two to four TBS sambal ulek or Sriracha sauce.
Generous pinch sugar.
Small pinch salt.
Liquid: coconut milk, broth, and water.

Cut the lemon grass into two or three inch long segments.
Bruise them by whacking, which helps release the flavour.

Roast the coconut shreds in an iron skillet till they are a disturbingly dark hue, black even. Then grind this fine, and add two or three tablespoons of cooking oil. Rub this all over the meat, which you have washed very well to remove all traces of blood.

Fry the onion golden, add the garlic and ginger, fry a bit more. Add the meat and lemon grass, cook till very fragrant, four or five minutes. Add the powdered spices and sugar, plus the sambal or Sriracha sauce, stir to distribute over heat. Let it gently seethe on low for a few minutes, stir to prevent it scorching.

Add the liquid -- about two cups each of water, broth, and coconut milk -- and raise to a boil. Turn low, and simmer for about ten minutes.
Some whole red chilies can be thrown on top.
It can eaten as soup, or served alongside rice.

Coconut milk is not necessary, and often left out. The amount of liquid is variable, and depends on your own preference. If you are making it soupy, increase the quantity of charred coconut, spices, and chili.
If more stewy, decrease.

In the traditional recipe, chunks of fresh coconut meat are charred over flames till they are easy to pound. That is rather hard to manage here, so instead I utilize shredded coconut, precisely like what is commonly made into serundeng.

Note that turmeric and galangal are used fresh in South-East Asia, but are hard to find in anything other than powdered form in the West.

Originally posted here:

Friday, August 1, 2014


[Rode kool met varkens koteletten]

Four pork chops; salted, peppered, floured.
Half a head of red cabbage, shredded.
One large onion, sliced thinly.
One or two apples, cored and sliced.
Some slivered ginger.
One Tsp. caraway seeds.
Quarter Tsp. ground cinnamon.

One cup or more of beer.
One and a half TBS sugar.
Juice of one or two lemons.

[Beer: use Anchor Steam, or a decent dark ale.]

Saute the onion, ginger, and caraway till golden. Add the apple and sugar, and let it sweat on low heat for ten minutes. Add the shredded cabbage, the lemon juice, cinnamon, and optionally a pinch of salt, then cover and put on the back burner for ten minutes with heat-absorber. Splash with half of the beer, and cook for half an hour.

While the cabbage is stewing in its juices, fry the pork chops on both sides, then seethe and deglaze with the remaining beer.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

After both the cabbage and the beer have been dealt with, decant the now softened cabbage to a clay pot or casserole, place the pork chops on top, cover, and set in the oven for an hour.
Make sure that there is plenty of moisture in the pot.

Serve with parsleyed potatoes or rice.

There will be enough for four people.

Originally here:

Wednesday, July 30, 2014


The recipe for 'Spicy Tex-Mex Lasagna' which Kikkoman offers on their page.


Ingredients (Makes 8 servings)

1 whole roast or rotisserie chicken
2 cans (20 ounces each) enchilada sauce
2 tablespoons Kikkoman Sriracha Sauce
12 to 16 six-inch corn tortillas
1 can (30 ounces) refried beans
2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Preheat oven to 375°F. Shred chicken meat and discard bones and skin. In a medium saucepan, heat enchilada sauce and sriracha sauce over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until hot. Spread 3 tablespoons sauce in an 11- by 7-inch baking dish and arrange 3 or 4 tortillas on top in a single layer. Spread refried beans on top. Add another layer of tortillas and sprinkle with the cheese. Spread 1 cup sauce on top and add a third layer of tortillas. Spread chicken on top of tortillas, layer remaining tortillas on top and cover with remaining sauce. Bake for 30 minutes or until heated through.


Originally mentioned here:

Thursday, July 17, 2014


Cantonese home-cooking.
It's soulfood.
Sik faan!

['haa jeung jing ng faa yiuk']

One pound streaky pork belly.
One or two inches ginger, slivered.
Two TBS sherry.
One to two TBS shrimp paste.
Half Tsp. sugar.
A dash of Worcestershire sauce.
Minced scallion.

Cut the pork into chopstickable chunks, rub with the sugar and shrimp paste. Arrange in a flat bowl, add the slivered ginger, sherry, and Worcestershire sauce, and place in a steamer over a roiling boil.
Steam for an hour, then remove and strew scallion over.
Serve with white rice and vegetables.

Be sure to spoon the juices onto your plate.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, July 13, 2014


This sauce is named after a term for cognac, but is NOT made with cognac. The name indicates that it is special. Which it is, being the most umami overload cooking ingredient in the Hong Kong repertoire

食譜: XO醬
Recipe for XO Sauce

12 TBS dried scallops.
8 TBS dried shrimp.
8 TBS chilipaste (sambal ulek).
4 TBS oyster sauce.
2 TBS sugar.
2 TBS soy sauce.
1 TBS shrimp paste.
½ TBS salt.
One small onion.
One bulb of garlic (a dozen cloves, more or less).
An amount of ginger equivalent to the garlic, or more.
Half a cup cooking oil.
One TBS sesame oil.

Soak shrimp and scallops for a few hours in water, till softened. Drain, reserving liquid, and chop to a somewhat granular state, not too fine.
Mince the garlic, ginger, and onion.

In a capacious pan fry the onion till golden. Add the garlic, ginger, shrimp paste, and chilipaste. When the shrimp paste is cooked (a minute or so) and the garlic and ginger have begun to colour, add the chopped scallop and shrimp. Stir-fry till the oil comes out and the mixture is aromatic. Add everything else including the reserved liquids, and again cook till the oil comes out, thus concentrating the flavour from the soaking liquid in the mixture. Cook a little longer on low to darken, which caramelizes it slightly.
Let it cool completely, and distribute it over containers. There should be a layer of oil on top.

Place one container in the refrigerator, and the others in the deepfreeze.
If all the water has been cooked out, it will keep for several weeks in the fridge.
Use either sparingly or liberally.

Most recipes for XO Sauce will include Chinwa ham or Chinese sausage, some substitute preserved pork-belly or even bacon. Those are contra-indicated, as moisture is the great enemy of a substance such as this.

Originally posted here:

Thursday, July 3, 2014


Butch AND vegan?


One eighteen ounce bag of vegetarian blue corn tortilla chips.
A sixteen ounce container of mild lime and jalapeno salsa.
Four cups vegetarian cooked pinto beans.
Two onions, chopped.
One TBS ground cumin.
One TBS chili powder.
One TBS cornstarch.
A pinch of nutmeg.
One pound of extra-firm tofu, cut into large cubes.
A 12 ounce bag of shredded soy "cheese".
Half a cup of soy "bacon" bits.
½ cup cilantro leaves for garnish.

Preheat oven to 450F. Dump the corn chips in a casserole and set aside. large baking dish, and set them aside. Put beans and salsa in a large saucepan, and heat them over medium heat, stirring, till quite hot. Set them aside. Sauté onion in a skillet till golden, for about 5 minutes. Set aside.
Combine cumin, chili powder, and cornstarch in a large bowl, dust the tofu all over with this mixture. Fry tofu cubes on all sides until crispy and fragrant. Remove from heat.
Ladle the bean and salsa mixture evenly over the cornchips, and sprinkle the soy "bacon" bits over the top. Add the tofu and onions on top, and layer the shredded soy "cheese" over all.
Bake in the oven till the "cheese" melts. Remove from oven, and garnish with cilantro before serving.

Friday, June 20, 2014



Two Chinese eggplants, cut into thick strips.
Two garlic cloves, minced.
Equivalent amount of ginger, ditto.
One scallion, also minced.
One fresh hot pepper, likewise.
Two TBS sherry or rice wine.
One TBS 豆瓣酱 ('dau-baan jeung': hot bean paste).
One TBS soy sauce.
One TBS fragrant black vinegar*.
A dab of chili-garlic sauce.
A pinch of sugar.
Cooking oil.
A few drops of dark sesame oil (芝麻油 'ji maa yau') or chili-oil (辣椒油 'laat chiu yau').

[Fragrant black vinegar: 鎮江香醋 ('jan-gong heung-cho': a flavourful dark rice vinegar produced in Jiangsu (江蘇 'gong sou') province, south-central China.
FYI: Great for dipping dumplings.]

Heat oil in the pan to almost the smoking point, toss in the eggplant pieces and cook on high briefly, flipping and overturning them as you go.
Clear some space in the pan, add a little more oil, and dump the garlic, ginger, scallion, and chili in this space. Stirfry till the fragrance rises and the garlic is golden. Mix everything and continue, stirring and tossing as you go. Add everything else, stir to mix well, and decant it all to a serving plate.

Originally posted here:

Friday, June 6, 2014


Hong Kong style clams.


Two pounds of fresh clams.
One TBS dried shrimp, soaked.
Six cloves of garlic, chopped.
One small onion, chopped.
One TBS curry powder.
One TBS oyster sauce.
A generous splash of sherry.
a little soy sauce.
A few fresh green jalapenos.

Saute the garlic, onion, and rehumidified shrimp till fragrant. Put the clams in the pan and stir-fry for a minute or two, then splash in the sherry to flame, stir in the curry powder, and add the oyster sauce and soy sauce. Stir, dump in the whole jalapenos, and cover for a few minutes till the clams open. Garnish with a little chopped scallion.

Originally posted here;

Thursday, June 5, 2014


A dish available in Penang, KL, Singapore, and, not surprisingly, Taiwan.


A dozen large fresh oysters, shucked.
Two TBS rice flour.
One TBS cornflour.
Half a cup (eight TBS) water.
Three cloves garlic, minced.
Three eggs, beaten.
One TBS sherry or rice wine.
One TBS soy sauce (regular or ketjap manis).
Generous pinch of ground white pepper.
Some minced chives and cilantro.

Rinse the oysters in cold water, making sure to remove all shell fragments, and pat dry. Beat the eggs with the white pepper sprinkled in.
Mix cornflour and rice flour, pour in the water slowly while stirring to make a fairly thin batter. Gild the garlic in your skillet add the rice wine to seethe, and remove to a small plate. Add more oil to the pan, and when it's hot, pour in the thin batter and cook briefly till half set before adding the beaten eggs. When the omelette is semi-firmed but still deliquescious, add the oysters and garlic, drizzle the soy sauce over, and loosen the omelette with a spatula. Cook a few seconds longer, then garnish liberally with the minced chives and cilantro, and decant to a plate.

Originally posted here:

Monday, June 2, 2014


["Escape Wind Embankment Stirfry Crab"]


Crab, two pounds (four live ones).
One hundred cloves of garlic, minced (eight heads).
Thumblength ginger, minced.
One onion, sliced.
Eight scallions, cut into lengths.
Two to six dried chilies, cracked and seeded.
Two TBS fermented black beans, coarsely smashed.
Quarter cup of rice wine or sherry.
Quarter cup of water or stock.
Half TBS oyster sauce.
Half tsp ground black pepper.
Half tsp. salt.
Pinch of sugar.
Dash of sesame oil.

First peel and chop the garlic, and soak it in water for an hour (doing so will prevent it scorching or browning too much). Drain, pat dry with a cloth, and fry it golden-crisp. Remove from the oil and set aside.
Dust the crab pieces with cornflour and put them meat side down in the hot oil (this seals in the flavour). Turn and fry the shell side. Drain and reserve.
Saute the ginger, onion, dry chilies, return crab to the pan.
Add the fermented black beans, rice wine or sherry, water or stock, oyster sauce, and the other remaining ingredients, stir well, dump the fried garlic over, and serve.


配料: 生猛蟹2公斤(四個)
蒜瓣100兩 (8頭),切碎

大蒜皮去衣切碎,先浸水 (泡大約一小時),用乾布吸乾啲,炸至金金脆脆,盛起瀝乾。 蟹洗淨、切件,然後灑上粟粉,炸至金黃,瀝乾。 燒油鑊炒香姜、洋蔥、乾辣椒,放蟹件入鑊。 加豆豉、花彫酒、清水或上湯、蠔油, 同埋其他調味料、兜勻; 加炸蒜,即成。

Originally posted here:

Tuesday, May 27, 2014



One pound of chicken, chunk-cut on bone.
Two onions, chopped.
One dozen Roma tomatoes, peeled seeded chopped.
One cup cashews.
Half a cup heavy cream.
Quarter cup yoghurt.
Two TBS. garam masala.
Half TBS. cayenne.
Thumblength ginger.
Five or six cloves garlic.
Pinches of salt and pepper.

One teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted till quite dark, then ground fine.

Mince and smash the garlic and ginger to a paste, mix it with the yoghurt and the pinches of salt and pepper. Marinate the chicken in this for an hour.

Pour boiling water (enough to cover) over the cashews and let them soften for that time.

Take the chicken pieces out of the marinade, and colour them well in hot oil. Remove to a plate, add the onions to the pan with a little more oil. Saute till coloured, add the tomatoes and spices, and cook soft, which will be about five minutes.

Dump the cashews and their soaking water into a blender, add the contents of the pan, and osterize smooth. Return this to the pan and reduce till velvety, then put in the chicken pieces. Bring back to a boil, turn heat low, and simmer a few minutes. Stir the cream into the dish, and let it heat, but do not bring it to a boil.

Dust the dark-roasted cumin powder over the top before serving.
Decorate with the merest sprinkle of sliced green chili.

Have it with chappatis, rice, and flaky onion kulcha.

Originally posted here:



Per cup:
One TBS black tea leaves.
Half dozen green cardamom pods.
A thin slice of ginger.
Pinch cinnamon.
Half Tsp. fennel seeds.
Merest pinch of ground cinnamon.
Sugar as desired.
One cup water.
Hefty jigger of milk.

Crack open the green cardamom pods so that the seeds are exposed. Bring water to a boil, add the cardamom and other spices, and simmer five minutes to release the flavour into the water. Add the tea leaves, simmer just below boiling for a couple minutes ere adding the milk. Simmer a few seconds longer after that, but do not allow it to roil.

Decant into a porcelain cup.

Originally posted here:


[Not Pakistani style, more sort of generic subcontinental.]

One cup masoor dal (red lentils).
Two cups water.
One onion, chopped.
Two tomatoes.
Four garlic cloves, minced.
Equivalent amount ginger, ditto.
Four green jalapenos.
One Tsp. cumin seeds.
One Tsp. ground coriander.
Half Tsp. cayenne.
Half Tsp. turmeric.
Cilantro for garnishing.
Oil, and butter.

Rinse lentils well, remove any unidentifiable objects.

Put lentils in a pot with two cups water or slightly more. Bring to a boil, simmer till soft, about forty minutes. Stir frequently to prevent scorching. Set aside.

Roast the tomatoes and jalapenos over an open flame (one of the burners on your stove), then peel &seed -- don't worry if some of the blackness remains, it adds flavour -- and chop coarsely.
Fry the cumin seeds in a little oil, then add the onion plus more oil and some butter, and saute till translucent. Put in the ginger, garlic, chilies, and the powdered spices, and when the fragrance rises add the tomato and stirfry soft. Decant everything into the lentil pot, and bring back to simmer temperature. Cook for about ten minutes, then squeeze in some lemon or lime juice for a fresh tanginess, and add salt and black pepper as appropriate. Garnish liberally with chopped cilantro, and a sprinkle more ginger, freshly slivered.

This is splendid as is, with white rice, cucumber-yoghurt, and achar.
I also think it's superb with chunks of roasted fatty pork.
Or high quality pork sausage, grilled.

Originally posted here:

Monday, May 26, 2014



Half a pound each chunked chicken and pork. Or all chicken.
One onion, chopped.
One thumb of ginger, minced.
Two or three cloves of garlic, ditto.
Three or four green chilies, ditto.
Two or three tomatoes, peeled seeded chopped.
Two cups of chopped spinach.
Two cups of chopped long beans.
Two TBS. tamarind paste.
One TBS. shrimp paste.
Four cups of water.
Pinch sugar.
Pinch cinnamon.
Pinch cumin.
Minced scallion to garnish.

In one pot bring the water to a boil with the tamarind paste, stirring to dissolve. Set aside.

In another pot, saute the onion and ginger, add the garlic and chilies when the onion is golden. When the garlic colours, add the shrimp paste, followed shortly thereafter by the tomato and the pinches sugar, cinnamon, and cumin. Put the meat chunks in the pot, and turn to coat and colour. Then strain the tamarind water into the pot, raise to boil, and turn low to simmer for about forty minutes. Add the spinach and long beans ten minutes before the end of cooking. Taste the broth when done, and adjust if necessary with a squeeze of lime juice. It should be tangy, but not too sour. Just tangy. Garnish with the minced scallion, and serve as a side with dinner, or pour it over rice if it's just you.

Originally posted here:



One pound of stew meat, chunk cut.
Two onions, chopped.
One cup brown ale.
Half a cup meat stock.
Two or three bay leaves.
Two or three cloves.
One or two star anise.
Pinches of nutmeg and dry ginger.
Two TBS flour.
One or two TBS sugar.
A hefty jigger of malt vinegar.
Salt and pepper.
Fresh herbs to finish.
Olive oil.

Salt and pepper the meat. Heat olive oil in a pan, add the meat, and brown it. Put the onion in and cook till golden. Sprinkle the flour over and stir to incorporate and colour. Add the liquids, sugar, and spices, once it bubbles turn the heat low and simmer for an hour or so.
Stir to prevent burning.
Throw some chopped parsley and chervil or chive on top.

Serve with plainly dressed vegetables and potatoes or steamed rice.

If you're from Louisiana, use brown roux instead of strewing the flour into the pan.
Traditionally, people would use one or two slices of peperkoek (a swemi-sweet rye cake) or stale brown bread to make the sauce thicker instead of flour. You can do that, but why?

Wherever you are from, have chilipaste ("sambal") on the side.

Originally posted here:

Monday, April 28, 2014



One fine fat rabbit, sectioned.
One large onion, chopped.
One beefsteak tomato, skinned and seeded.
Three to five cloves garlic, minced.
A thumblength ginger, minced.
Two Tsp. ground coriander.
One Tsp. each: cumin, cayenne.
Half a Tsp. turmeric.
Four or five green chilies, chopped.
Three or four green cardamom pods.
Two or three whole cloves.
About a dozen whole peppercorns.
One or two bay leaves.
One stick cinnamon.
Juice of two limes.

Sauté the onion with the whole spices and plenty of oil till nicely browned. Add the garlic and ginger, gild a bit, add the ground spices and rabbit pieces, and cook, stirring, till the fragrance rises. Put in everything else plus water to cover, squeeze the lime over, simmer for forty minutes.
Remove the bay leaves and garnish with cilantro.

Serve with a heap of steamed rice.
And some chilipaste.

Originally posted here:



Sliced bitter melon, salted briefly, squeezed, rinsed, and drained.
Fatty meat, sliced and sprinkled with cornflour and sherry.
Garlic. Ginger. Fresh green chili.
Touch of shrimp paste.
Squeeze lime.

Add items to the pan in the stages you are familiar with, when the bitter melon is nearly cooked, flame with a generous splash of sherry and decant to a serving plate. Squeeze the lime over.
Serve with steamed rice, and a dish of chilipaste.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, April 13, 2014


A sauce suitable for the fast-paced middle-aged bachelor lifestyle. Wise individuals keep a jar on hand at all times, and give it to relatives for celebratory events. Anniversaries and stuff.


2 cups mayonnaise.
4 TBS good olive oil.
4 TBS Heinz Chili Sauce.
4 TBS ketchup.
2 TBS of Sriracha Sauce.
2 TBS Dijon Mustard.
1 TBS Worcestershire sauce.
1 TBS finely minced scallion or onion.
1 Tsp. minced garlic.
½ Tsp. ground coriander seed.
½ Tsp. freshly cracked black pepper.
½ Tsp. salt (*).
Pinch of sugar.
The juice of one lime.
A dash of Tabasco.

Optional: one mashed anchovy fillet.
[*If you use anchovy, omit the half teaspoon of salt.]

Mash the anchovy and garlic thoroughly in a blending bowl, then whisk all ingredients fiercely together. Can be stored in the refrigerator, and used on virtually everything.

Originally published here:,  titled: FABULOUS PIZZA, AND SHEER HERESY.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014



One pound of chunked or sliced meat.
Four TBS soy sauce.
Three or four shallots, sliced thin.
Two or Three TBS sugar.
A very hefty squeeze of lime juice.
Dash vinegar.
Pinches of clove and cinnamon.
Garlic and ginger; sliced, smashed, or slivered.

Brown the shallots, garlic, and ginger. Put the meat in the pan to colour, add the soy sauce and sugar and a splash of water. Simmer till sticky and fragrant, on the cusp of scorching. Add the lime juice, vinegar, and chilipaste, stir to incorporate, and add a splash more water.
Simmer a little longer.
The total cooking time for the meat should be about an hour or so; less for tender white, more for dark and robust. Pork doesn't take too much time, but goat might be a while.
Lamb requires extra garlic, beef more ginger.
Make it moist enough to wet the rice.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, April 6, 2014



Eight to ten chicken thighs.
Half a cup of soy sauce.
One third cup of cider vinegar.
One and a half cups of coconut milk.
Bay leaves.
One or two sliced shallots.
One Tsp. whole pepper corns.
Eight garlic cloves, minced.

Prick the thighs here and there with a fork, marinate in soy sauce for half an hour. Drain, reserving soy sauce. Brown in a pan, and discard some of the grease. Add the sliced shallot and colour this slightly, then add everything else and simmer for half an hour or so, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking or burning.
Remove bay leaves.

Serve with steamed rice, and a little saucer of crushed garlic in vinegar on the side.

If you want, you can also add whole siling labuyo (wild chili) or siling haba (long chili) to the pan. Siling labuyo is sharper than siling haba.

Note that this type of soy sauce, vinegar, and coconut milk flavouring can also be used for adobo sa liyempo (pork belly adobo), as well as ginataan manok and ginataan hipon -- chicken or shrimp coconut milk stew, with the amount of vinegar reduced severely, even replaced with one or two tablespoons of strong tamarind water. The process is to simmer till the sauce separates. If using shrimp, don't add them till after everything else has been combined and cooked, then put them in to poach in the sauce. Shrimp does not require more than a few minutes of heat.

Originally posted here:

Wednesday, March 26, 2014



Four cups turtle broth.
Half a cup cream.
Half a cup of whipping cream.
Half a cup sherry.
Half a cup turtle scraps.
Two Tsp. Madras curry powder.
Pinch of mace.

Mix everything except the whipping cream over low heat, taking care that it does not boil. Then beat the bejazus out of the whipping cream, apportion the liquid over several small bowls or cups, and add whipping cream on top.

Nowadays it is usually made with mussel broth, as even the English have become averse to greenish-hued mysteries and chelonitoxism.

More complex recipes use two egg yolks beaten into the cream to make a richer experience. Add a little soup to this mixture, then increase the amount gradually to a full cup worth. This will ease the subsequent addition of the cream and yolk mixture to the rest of the soup.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, March 23, 2014



Half a dozen chicken thighs.
Two onions, sliced.
Two TBS mango chutney.
Two Tsp. ground coriander.
One Tsp. ground cumin.
One Tsp. turmeric.
One Tsp. cayenne.
One TBS flour.
One TBS lemon juice.
One TBS sugar.
Dash of Worcestershire sauce.
A jigger of sherry.
Bay leaf or two.
Chili pepper or two.
Two to three cups water.

Gently sauté the chicken thighs till nicely coloured in some oil. Add the onions, and let them softly brown. Add the water, bay leaf, and chili (chopped or not) and put on a low simmer. Mix the remaining ingredients and stir into the pot. Cook till the chicken is tender.
Which, for a scraggy rooster, might be an hour or two, but for a fine young hen would be about forty minutes.


Four cups cooked rice.
Two TBS peach preserves.
One minced hot chili.
One minced onion.
One peeled seeded chopped tomato.
Half a Tsp. ground coriander.
Quarter Tsp. turmeric.
Half a cup yoghurt.
A bit of chopped parsley or cilantro.
A little bit finely minced ginger.

Fry the onion in some oil till light brown. Add the chili and tomato, stir to incorporate, and add the coriander and turmeric. When the fragrance of the spices becomes noticeable mix in everything else and heat through. Serve with the chicken curry shown above.

Necessary adjuncts to a proper English excuse for Indian food are sliced cucumbers in yoghurt, a bowl of chutney, chopped onions, a hot sauce, and a jar of Patak's lime or mango pickle.
And perhaps fried nuts.

Possibly also a salad.
Personally, I also like potato chunks cooked crusty, flavoured with ground dark roasted cumin seeds, cayenne, and a pinch of amchoor.
But that isn't properly British, even if peas are added.

Originally posted here:

Tuesday, February 11, 2014



1½ LBS goat, chunk cut.
1 Onion, finely chopped.
1 Thumblength ginger, minced.
3 Cloves garlic, minced.
3 Large tomatoes; peeled, seeded, chopped.
3 TBS curry powder.
6 Whole green chilies; Serrano or Jalapeno.
6 Green cardamom pods.
2 Whole cloves.
2 Bay leaves.
½ Cup coconut milk.
1½ Cup water or beer.
½ Tsp. sugar.
½ Tsp. garam masala.
Salt, pepper, oil.

Salt and pepper the meat.

Gild the onion in the pan with plenty oil, add the ginger and garlic halfway through, and add the sugar, which will facilitate browning.
Add the curry powder, cardamom pods, and whole cloves, stir to blend; add the meat, stir to coat. When the meat colours, but before the curry powder scorches, add the tomatoes. Mix.
Pour the liquids in, and add the whole chilies to float on top; their presence will contribute fragrance, but scant heat if left whole. Add the bay leaves. Raise to boil, turn low and simmer for two hours.
Add the garam masala and cook a few minutes longer.
Garnish with chopped cilantro.
Serve with rice.


One onion, chopped.
3 Cups rice; rinsed, drained, aired.
3 Cloves garlic, minced.
A little fresh ginger, ditto.
3 Bay leaves.
1½ Cups coconut milk.
1½ Cups chicken stock.
1½ Cups water.
Pinch salt.

Gild the onions in oil. When starting to brown, stir in the rice and garlic. Cook thus till the fragrance of the garlic is very noticeable. Add the ginger, stir briefly, then add the liquids and the bay leaves, plus the salt. Bring to a simmer, turn heat low and cover. Cook for fifteen to twenty minutes.
Let it rest, covered, for about ten to fifteen minutes.
Fluff it up, and squeeze some lime juice over it.


3½ Tsp. ground coriander.
1½ Tsp. (½ TBS) turmeric.
1½ Tsp. (½ TBS) ground cumin.
1 Tsp. cayenne.
½ Tsp. ground black pepper.
½ Tsp. dry ginger.
½ Tsp. cinnamon powder.

Mix, and use as necessary. This equals the three tablespoons needed for the goat curry.

Goat curry powder can also be used for pork.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, February 9, 2014


Something for your toast.


Two cups coarsely shredded bottle gourd.
One cup cane sugar.
Two TBS lime juice.
One TBS finely shredded ginger.
Miniscule pinch salt.

Put the shredded bottle gourd and the minute pinch of salt in an enamel saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, turn low, and simmer till translucent, about fifteen minutes. Drain, reserving about half a cup of the liquid.

Mix the reserved cooking liquid with the sugar and the lime juice. Cook while stirring till the sugar is fully dissolved. Now add the bottle gourd shreds and ginger, and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, for an hour or two. It is done when the syrup is thick and gluggy.

Decant into a glass jar and seal as you would any other home-made preserve, or store it in the refrigerator where it will keep for several months.

Originally posted here:

Monday, February 3, 2014


[Steeped Fish]

Two pounds salmon fillets.
Two cucumbers; peeled, seeded, and sliced.
One carrot, thin coin cut.
One onion, sliced thinly.
One cup vinegar.
Half a cup of water or fish stock.
Quarter cup of lemon juice.
One Tsp. sugar.
Quarter Tsp. cayenne.
Pinches of salt and pepper.

Mix, spread plastic wrap over and press onto the surface, and set it in the refrigerator for half a day. Take it out when ready to eat.
Heat to a boil, then let cool to room temperature.
Garnish with minced parsley.

Serve as a first course, with some buttered brown bread from a dense loaf.

You should drink sherry or chilled genever with this.

Originally posted here:

Sunday, January 26, 2014


Grilled chicken pieces.

One cup fresh yoghurt.
One cup chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro).
Thumb-length ginger, chopped.
Half dozen cloves garlic, chopped.
1-2 TBS ground coriander.
½ TBS ground cumin.
½ TBS cayenne.
1 Tsp. dry ginger.
½ Tsp. turmeric.
½ Tsp. cinnamon powder.
½ Tsp ground black pepper.
½ Tsp. salt.
½ Tsp. orange food coloring.
Two TBS lime juice.

2 Lbs. chicken, boned and skinned, large chunk cut.

One onion sliced into very thin rings.
Fresh green chilies, sliced.
Lime wedges for squeezing.
Generous pinches of amchoor.
Pinch of salt.

Dump all marinade ingredients except the yoghurt into the food processor, grind smooth. Mix with the yoghurt, and marinate the chicken for several hours therein inside the refrigerator.

Spear the chicken chunks on skewers and grill over red hot coals. Brush with ghee two or three times, allowing the excess to drip into the fire and flare up.

Once the chicken is cooked, put it on a heated platter and set it aside temporarily.

Put the onion rings and sliced chilies in a bowl, squeeze the lime over, and sprinkle with the amchoor and the pinch of salt. Mix well. Strew some over the chicken, and dump the rest next to it.

Best served with fresh buttery naan.

Originally from here:

Sunday, January 12, 2014


Cabbage soup from the New Frontier, which is a place that Lithuanians, Poles, and Ruthenians fought over, in, and on. For several centuries.
Food is fuel, food is a fortress, food is the soul.

Half pound sauerkraut (kislaya kapusta), slightly drained.
Half of a head of white cabbage, finely shredded.
One onion, chopped.
Two carrots, peeled and diced.
Two stalks celery, diced.
Two potatoes, peeled and diced.
One pound pork ribs.
Half a pound smoked sausage, chopped.
Six to eight cups clear stock.
Three TBS tomato paste.
Three cloves garlic, minced.
Two Tsp sugar.
Two Tsp paprika.

Two to four TBS finely minced parsley.
And plenty of cilantro, if you live in SF.
Otherwise it's optional.

Brown the ribs and smoked sausage in some rendered fat, and remove to a plate. Then sauté the onion, celery, and carrot in the pot, with the garlic, till nicely gilded and fragrant. Stir in the tomato paste, and add everything else except the parsley and cilantro. Bring to a boil, lower the flame, and simmer for about an hour and a half, two hours.

Remove the pork ribs from the soup with cooking tongs, and strip the meat from the bones. Discard the bones, chop the meat and return it to the soup. Add a few grinds of pepper, and serve in individual bowls with the parsley and cilantro strewn over.
Serves four.

Have some chili peppers and a bowl of sour cream (smetana) on the table for them as wants, along with a fresh loaf of crusty bread.

NOTE: I always add caraway seeds (kimil) to cabbage dishes (kroitn, kapusti) when preparing such. But that may not be your thing.
[½ teaspoon for this recipe.]

Originally posted here: