Thursday, May 26, 2011

SHARK FIN SOUP - PERSONAL FAVOURITE

魚翅湯 SHARK FIN SOUP - YÜ CHI TONG


This is my own variant on sharkfin soup.
I used both roast duck and baby bokchoi, neither of which are standard inclusions in this soup. The first because I love the added taste, the second because of the visual appeal and the texture.

Originally published here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2010/11/chinese-slimy-things.html

6 - 8 oz Sharkfin, ready for use.
4 - 6 Cups superior stock or clear broth (高湯 - ko tong).
Quarter cup Cantonese roast duck (燒鴨 - siu ngaap), boned and shredded.
Quarter cup soaked trimmed sliced black mushroom (香菇 - heung gu).
Quarter cup whole shelled shrimp.
Quarter cup chopped baby bokchoi(小白菜 - siu pak tsoi).
4 Tbs Sherry.
2 Tbs Soy Sauce.
2 Tbs Cornstarch, mixed with equal amount water.
Ginger, two or three slices.
Scallion, two or three stems, in two or three inch pieces.
Ground white pepper, sesame oil, finely minced scallion, Tabasco.

Heat about three TBS oil in a wok. Add the ginger slices and the scallion pieces. Whack around briefly, and before the scallion burns remove it, followed by the ginger slices. This 'tempers' the oil.

Now pour in the stock, sherry, and soy sauce, taking care not to splash or burn yourself. Bring to a boil, turn low to simmer. Add the shark fin, followed by the roast duck, black mushrooms, and shrimp. Add the bokchoi, stir in the cornstarch to thicken, and adjust taste with ground white pepper, a delicate drizzle of sesame oil, a few drops Tabasco. Garnish with the minced scallion and serve.

BROCADE EMBROIDERY UPON THE OCEAN SHARK FIN

BROCADE EMBROIDERY UPON THE OCEAN SHARK FIN
錦繡海上鮮 GAM SAU HOI SEUNG SIEN
Enough for a party of six to eight people.
Originally published here: http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/02/sharkfin-soup-and-san-francisco-racists.html


Half cup soaked sharkfin.
Half cup cooked crab.
Half cup peeled fresh shrimp.
Half cup chopped white-fleshed fish.
Quarter cup soaked sea cucumber, sliced.
Quarter cup bamboo shoot, sliced.
Quarter cup soaked black mushroom, sliced.
A dozen little clams, shelled (optional - I leave them out).
Three large conpoy.
One scallion, coarse cut.
A little sliced ginger.
Two to four TBS sherry.
Six cups superior stock.
Pinch of sugar.
One egg-white, beaten.

A little cornstarch water, rendered chicken fat.

Marinate the fish and shrimp in one tablespoon cornstarch whisked with one tablespoon sherry and an eggwhite for half an hour. Meanwhile steam the soaked sharkfin and conpoy until the conpoy can be pulled apart into shreds.

Heat oil, sauté scallion and ginger. Sizzle with sherry, add the stock, bring to a boil. Add the sharkfin, crab, sea -cucumber, bamboo shoots and black mushrooms, bring back to a boil, add the fish, shrimp and shredded conpoy, raise back to a boil. Stir-in a little cornstarch water to velvetize, along with the rendered chicken fat, and while stirring drizzle in the beaten egg white to form thin whisps.

CRAB MEAT CLUTCHED SHARK FIN

CRAB MEAT CLUTCHED SHARK FIN
蟹肉把翅 HAI YIUK PA CHI
Enough for a party of four to six people.
Originally published here: http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/02/sharkfin-soup-and-san-francisco-racists.html


One cup soaked shark fin.
Half cup crab meat.
Quarter cup sherry.
Two scallion.
Two slices ginger.
Two TBS oil.
One TBS soy sauce.
Six cups superior stock.
Pinch of sugar.
Pinch of ground white pepper.

A little cornstarch water, rendered chicken fat.

Simmer shark fin in two cups stock with one scallion and one slice ginger for an hour. Drain, discard liquid, ginger, scallion.

Heat the oil at the bottom of a soup pot, sauté the remaining scallion and ginger a few seconds, enough to temper the oil, then remove. Add the crab meat, stir around briefly, sizzle with sherry.
Pour in the remaining four cups of stock, soy sauce, sugar, pepper. Bring to a boil, add the shark fin, turn low and simmer for about ten minutes.
Thicken with a little cornstarch water, add a little chicken fat for glossiness and flavour.

Note: this soup can be frozen with little loss of quality. But there probably won't be any left, even if there's only two of you at the table.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

ANGLO-INDIAN CURRY CHICKEN

This dish is not a bad choice for a casual celebration, especially around Chinese New Year. It's simple to make. That, you will admit, is a cardinal virtue.


ANGLO-INDIAN CURRY CHICKEN

One three pound chicken, chunked.
Two big potatoes, peeled and boiled, cubed.
Three or four Roma tomatoes, peeled and chopped.
Three or four garlic cloves, minced.
Two onions, chopped.
One cinnamon stick.
Two whole star anise.
Three green cardamom pods.
2 TBS ground coriander.
1 TBS turmeric.
½ TBS ground cumin.
½ TBS cayenne.
1 Tsp. dry ginger.
½ Tsp. fenugreek powder.
½ Tsp. ground pepper.
½ Tsp. English mustard powder.
1½ cups coconut milk, or somewhat more as needed.
1 cup regular milk.
½ TBS sugar.
½ Tsp. salt.


Gild garlic and onion in a little oil. Add the whole spices, stir till the aroma rises. Add the chicken pieces and cook till coloured. Add the powdered spices and a splash water, fry fragrant. Put in the tomatoes, fry for a few moments and loosen with another splash water. Pour in the coconut milk and the regular milk, simmer till the chicken is done.

It should be a very wet curry - adjust with a little water if necessary.
Stir in the sugar and salt, add the potatoes, and simmer for two or three minutes longer.
Garnish with cilantro.


Serve with plain white rice, and a plate of thick sliced cucumbers, as well as serundeng, sambal, and atjar tjampur.
Plus some vegetable dishes.

NOTE: a few green chilies can be floated on top during the simmering once the liquids are added. Left whole, they will impart their fragrance, but only a little of their heat. The cooking will temper them somewhat, so adventurous diners may choose to eat them with some of the sauce.

Friday, May 22, 2009

POM

Chicken stew in a taro crust - Surinamese shepherd's pie.

Originally posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2009/05/pom.html


POM

One chicken, two and a half to three pounds.
Half pound salt pork or substitute (good chicken sausage works well).
Two and a half pounds to three pounds unpeeled taya (taro root).
Six to eight Roma tomatoes, peeled and chopped.
Two onions, chopped.
Two stalks celery, chopped.
Two bouillon cubes (use 2 - 4 TBS soy sauce instead.)
Salt, Pepper, nutmeg (or mace).
Juice of one orange and two lemons.
Two or three cloves of garlic, minced.
One tablespoon sugar.
Half a cup oil.


Cut the chicken into chunks, rub with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Soak the salt pork, if using, to remove excess salt.
Brown the chicken chunks and the salt pork (or whatever you are using as substitute), remove to a plate. The meat should not be fully cooked at this point, just nicely coloured.

Fry the onions, to which add the tomatoes, garlic, and celery halfway through.
Cook till nice (at this point, I would a hefty splash of sherry and a jigger of hot sauce - not authentically Surinamese, but I do this with many dishes - it just tastes better to me).

Add the chicken and pork, water to cover, and the bouillon cubes or soy sauce, as well as a fragrant chili pepper (whole).
When done, drain the cooking liquid into a bowl and reserve it, as you will need some of it for the taya. The meat, of course, is also kept.
Taste the liquid - it should be somewhat stronger in flavour than you really like, and a little saltier. This is because it needs to flavour the taya too.

Peel and rinse the taya, then rasp or grate it - a cuisinart is handy. Because of the calcium oxalate in taya, you may wish to use kitchen gloves.
Mix the taya with some of the cooking liquid from the meat and the orange and lemon juices to a thick gluggy paste, adding the sugar.
Scoop half of the taya sludge into a well-greased deep Pyrex baking dish in a thick layer, put the chicken mixture on top, cover with the remaining taya and smooth it down.

Pour the remaining cooking liquids on top, and bake for two hours in a hot oven (one hour at 425 - 450 Fahrenheit, one hour at 350 Fahrenheit).
By adding the remaining liquids to the top, you will end up with a very nicely dark brown surface after cooking. Don't worry about the darkness, worry rather if it lacks that darkness after having been baked.

It is done when a golden-brown juice extrudes when you prick it with a knife.
Keep enough of the cooking liquid from preparing the chicken that you can serve the pom with rice, adding a splash to wetten the serving.
Pom is also a good filling for hot crusty rolls (broodje pom).


Note 1.
If the taya causes a skin itch while preparing, use some lemon juice to counteract that characteristic.
Do not taste the taya sludge before it is cooked! Taya can not be eaten raw!

Note 2.
Some people mix the taya with a goodly quantity of mustard before cooking; the mustard changes flavour considerably, and even standard yellow mustard can be used.
Green banana, cut into pieces, can also be mixed into the taya before baking.

Note 3.
Surinamers use bouillon cubes as a flavouring in many dishes, but soy sauce and strong stock work just as well, without the monosodium glutamate and industrial fake-chicken flavour. Salt pork is also often used. Both are cultural markers of the cuisine, and there are better things to use.


The one thing for which no substitute is possible is the jar of sambal made from Madame Jeanette peppers, which are a fragrant local variety of Habanero and Scotch Bonnet. Just mash the fresh chilies with a pinch salt, a squeeze lime juice, and a dash of water, then thoroughly wash whatever utensils you used to make the sambal. A teaspoon of this one your plate will make it a memorable meal.
You may also want to put a selection of zesty pickles on the table, and several bottles of djindja biri (ginger beer).

Saturday, February 14, 2009

PUMPKIN PRESERVE

This is what you should do with pumpkins

Originally published here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2009/02/pumpkin-preserve.html


PUMPKIN PRESERVE

A small Pumpkin, about two pounds.
2 cups Vinegar.
2 Water.
2 cups Sugar.
Four TBS Raisins.
Two TBS Ginger, peeled and slivered.
One TBS Salt.
One Teaspoon of Cayenne.
A squeeze of lime juice.

Scrape out the muck and seeds first. Then cut, peel, and coarsely grate the pumkin. Simmer with everything except the vinegar and the squooze lime till dry. Add the vinegar, squeeze the lime in, and cook thick. Decant into clean jars.


Note: For a beautifully hued preserve, substitute a measure of pomegranate juice for the water.

Use as you would any chutney or relish alongside meat. Or eat by the spoonful straight from the jar when you think no one is looking.

Monday, January 26, 2009

KNISH

Savoury turn-overs, sort of. Little hot squares.

Note: this is a modified version of a recipe first posted here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2009/01/knish.html


THE KNISH

Dough:
Two cups plain flour.
Quarter cup water.
Four Tbs cooking oil or schmaltz.
A little water, added as needed.
Two eggs.
A pinch of salt.

In a steel bowl klop and klots di eyer with the oil (or schmaltz), plus alittle water. Mix in the flour, adding more as needed and knead till you have a smooth dough, just barely tacky. Do not overwork the dough! You don’t want a tough crust.
Ball it, cover, and let it rest for about half an hour.

Filling:
One cup coarse mashed potatoes.
One onion, chopped.
One Tablespoon cooking oil.
Plenty of salt and pepper.
Chopped parsley.

In a frypan sauté the onion golden.
Mix the potato-mash, gilded onion, parsley, salt and pepper together. Adjust taste. A pinch nutmeg is good to add, but isn’t customary.

On a greased or floured surface roll out dough to a rectangle about ten by twenty inches, cut in half lengthwise, then cut each length of dough across into four.

Place a portion of the filling on each square, flatten it, and fold each square of dough over, taking the corners and pulling them over the filling to join in the center. A bit of whapping and tweaking to get nice square shapes is all it takes, if there’s a little dough flapping extra per knish, trim it with a paring knife. Or simply do as if making apple turnovers – who says you have to be perfect? Brush a little butter on top.
Bake thirty to forty minutes in the oven at 375 degrees (preheated) till nice.

It is also a good idea to finish them by frying.

Probably groisse heresy to mention that I eat mine with a dollop of chili-paste on the side.