Monday, January 25, 2021

BAKED PORTUGUESE CHICKEN AND RICE

A dish invented in Hong Kong and served in many chachanteng.

焗葡國雞飯
['Guk pou gwok gai faan']
BAKED PORTUGUESE CHICKEN AND RICE


Marinate about half a pound of chicken chunks in a little rice wine, soy sauce, ginger, and corn starch. Then brown them in a skillet with a few chunks of fatty sausage (linguiça or chorizo, your choice). Layer it on top of scallion & egg-fried rice in a casserole, add cooked potato wedges, pour a mild coconut curry sauce over, add a sprinkle of grated cheese, and brown it under the broiler. A slight excess of the coconut curry sauce is recommended.

Serve with hot sauce on the side.


Some people cook chopped bell peppers along with the chicken.


From this post: HALF BAKED PORTUGUESE COOT


HAKKA STYLE PORK BELLY WITH PLUM VEGETABLE

客家式梅菜扣肉
['haak gaa sik mui choi kau yiuk']
MUI CHOI KAU YIUK

Hakka style steamed pork belly with preserved vegetables.


Slightly over a pound of pork is enough for about three or four people. The preserved vegetables, after soaking and rinsing, should have a volume of about between two thirds and roughly equal to the amount of pork. A bit of garlic and ginger, plus three or four tablespoons of soy sauce, and a hefty jigger of Siu Heng ricewine or sherry. Teaspoon of sugar.


Coarsely chop the rehydrated (if dried, they should be soaked for at least two or three hours; if tinned or plastic packed, half that) plum vegetable (梅菜 'mui choi', or 雪裡蕻/雪里紅 'suet lei hung'; a type of brassica) coarsely. Parboil the entire piece of pork in boiling water for about ten to fifteen minutes, drain and cool, and rub all over with soy sauce (about two TBS) to give it some colour, especially the rind.
Then fry it in hot oil all over, two or three minutes. Watch out for splashing. Take it out, and when it's cooled enough to handle, cut it into thick slices. Layer the bottom of a metal, ceramic, or pyrex bowl with the slices, rind side down.
Add little sprinkle of sugar.

Gild the chopped garlic and ginger (a suitable quantity, use your own judgement). When they have started to colour, add the plum vegetable and saute till nicely fragrant; add the siu heng wine and a tablespoon or two of soy sauce. Stir. Decant, and layer on top of the pork; there should be a little clearance only. Put a plate on top, and place in the steamer for about three hours. More time will not hurt the dish.

Take the bowl out of the steamer, place a serving plate with a deep rim upside down over the bowl, and deftly flip it so everything ends up on the plate. Bottom layer mui choi, then the thick slices tender fatty pork.


Serve with plenty of rice.


From this post: OH, ZESTINESS!


STIRFRIED CLAMS

豉椒炒蜆
[Stirfried clams with salted black beans and red pepper: 'si jiu chaau hin']


Rinse the clams in salt water, and briefly boil them. Sauté chopped shallot, minced salted black bean, garlic, and hot red chilies, till fragrant. Add the clams, agitate briskly, drizzle in a little siuheng rice wine or sherry, followed by the sauce fixings (dollop oyster sauce, spoonful of soy sauce, whisked smooth), then add the usual solution of cornstarch, water, and sugar and sir around till coated and glazed. Throw in a handful of segmented scallion, give it all a final turn, and plate it.



From this post: NOT MINNESOTA CLAMS


OMELETTE WITH BITTER MELON AND PRESERVED MUSTARD

Serve over rice, or as a main dish.


涼瓜榨菜煎蛋
['Leung gwaa jaa choi jin daan']
Bitter Melon Preserved Mustard Omelette


3 eggs.
Pinch pepper.
1.5 TBS water.
2 TBS preserved mustard (榨菜 'jaa choi'), minced.
2 TBS oil.
Half cup thinly sliced, soaked, and drained bitter melon.


Beat eggs with pepper, water and preserved mustard. Heat wok over medium, when hot add the oil, then pour beaten egg in.
Let cook about half a minute, then strew the bitter melon into it. When the omelette is a golden on the bottom, take two spatulas, carefully lift and flip over. Let cook till set. Dump onto plate, serve hot. To be cut up with a serving spoon or just ripped apart by flying chopsticks.

Sriracha or sweet Thai-style hot sauce (or both) are good with this.



From this post: EGG, BITTER MELON, CHILI SAUCE, RICE


PULI FRY

Meat prepared with tamarind. A side dish.


PULI FRY

Half pound meat or slightly more, small chunk cut.
One big onion, sliced.
Tablespoon chili paste.
Teaspoon ground coriander.
Two cloves garlic, mashed.
Equivalent amount ginger, ditto.
One cup tamarind water.

Mix the meat with the chili paste, coriander, garlic, and ginger. Fry the sliced onion golden in sufficient oil, add the meat, fry till fragrant. Pour in the tamarind water and cook till thick. Adding a pinch of ground nutmeg while frying the meat is my recommendation here.



From this post: PULI FRY -- FRAZZLED MEAT WITH TAMARIND


KONKANI FISH CURRY

A main dish.


KONKANI FISH CURRY

Ingredients:
Two pounds firm fish, big chunks.
Half cup each: Oil, chopped onions, chopped tomatoes.
One and a half cup coconut milk (more or less one can).
Half dozen green peppers, slit and seeded.

Masala:
Three tablespoons chilipaste.
One tablespoon ground coriander.
One teaspoon each: ground cumin, turmeric, sweet chili powder.
Minced ginger, minced garlic.
Half cup of tamarind water.

Put the chili paste, spices, ginger, garlic, and tamarind water in the blender. Brown the onions. Add tomatoes and masala, fry fiercely for two minutes. Add half the coconut milk and cook till oil separates. Put in the fish, green chilies, and some water. Cook for five minutes. Bring to a boil, and remove from heat.

Rice. Bread.


From here: VINDALOO, BALLICHAO, JHINGA MASALA, KONKANI FISH CURRY, KHARI BISCUIT, AND SALI MARGI; THINK OF IRANI CAFÉS IN THE FORT


JHINGA MASALA

A main dish.


JHINGA MASALA

Ingredients:
Two pounds large fresh prawns.
Half cup oil, half cup finely chopped onions.

Masala:
Three tablespoons chili paste.
Half tablespoon turmeric.
Half teaspoon each: paprika, cinnamon powder.
Quarter teaspoon clove powder.
Plenty chopped ginger, a little garlic.
Four tablespoons vinegar.
Four tablespoons tamarind water.

Put spices, vinegar, and tamarind water in the blender, add water if necessary.
Fry onions golden, add the masala, cook till the oil separates.
Add prawns, cook till done.


From here: VINDALOO, BALLICHAO, JHINGA MASALA, KONKANI FISH CURRY, KHARI BISCUIT, AND SALI MARGI; THINK OF IRANI CAFÉS IN THE FORT


SHRIMP BALLICHAO

A sidedish.


SHRIMP BALLICHAO

Ingredients:
Two pounds shrimp, shelled and veined.
One cup minced onion.
Half cup chopped tomato.

Masala:
Three tablespoons chili paste.
One tablespoon golden sugar.
One teaspoon garam masala.
Half a teaspoon ground black pepper.
Quarter teaspoon each ground cumin, turmeric, salt, cayenne.
Half a cup of vinegar, half a cup of tamarind water.

Put everything except shrimp, onion, and tomato in a blender. Fry the prawns a scant two minutes, remove and drain. Brown onions, add spices, then add the tomatoes. Cook till blended well and thick. Add the prawns and fry till done.

Sourdough bread.



From here: VINDALOO, BALLICHAO, JHINGA MASALA, KONKANI FISH CURRY, KHARI BISCUIT, AND SALI MARGI; THINK OF IRANI CAFÉS IN THE FORT


VINDALOO

Not the British national dish.


VINDALOO

Ingredients:
Two pounds pork, large cubes.
One onion, chopped.
Quarter cup of cilantro.

Marinade:
Quarter cup vinegar, tablespoon sugar, tablespoon ground pepper, plus one or two green cardamom pods, cloves, bay leaves, green chilies.

Masala:
Tablespoon chili paste.
Tablespoon ground coriander.
One teaspoon cinnamon powder.
Half teaspoon ground cumin.
Ginger and garlic.
Quarter cup vinegar.
Quarter cup strong tamarind water.

Mix the ingredients of masala smooth in a blender. Marinate meat for several hours in marinade. Brown onions, add the masala, cook till the oil separates. Add meat and marinade, heat to boil, add two or three cups of water, turn flame low. Simmer for a few hours. Add the cilantro, remove from heat.

Serve with plain white rice.
And sourdough bread.



From here: VINDALOO, BALLICHAO, JHINGA MASALA, KONKANI FISH CURRY, KHARI BISCUIT, AND SALI MARGI; THINK OF IRANI CAFÉS IN THE FORT


PORK BALLICHAO

Macanese. Side dish.


PORK BALLICHAO

Ingredients for the enamel stew-pot:
One pound pork, cut into smallish cubes.
Four tablespoons wet shrimp paste.
Two onions, minced.
Half a dozen cloves of garlic, sliced.
Two TBS chili paste (sambal oelek).
Two to four Tbs oil.

Spice paste:
Two TBS chili paste.
Two TBS Louisiana hot sauce.
Four TBS tamarind water.
One head of garlic, separated into cloves, feet trimmed.
A piece of ginger, roughly three slices.
One TBS peppercorns.
One Tsp. ground cumin.
Half Tsp. turmeric.
Half Tsp. cinnamon.
Quarter Tsp. ground clove.
One cup of white vinegar.


Put the spice paste ingredients into the blender, reserving some of the vinegar to rinse out the remaining sludge after blending well.
Reserve it all.

Sautée the pork pieces till slightly browned at the edges, but not fully cooked. Decant and set aside. Lightly gild the garlic, add onion, fry till the onion starts to brown. Now add the chili paste and the shrimp paste and close the kitchen door if you haven't done so already.
Cook until colour and smell change, add the garlic and spice sludge, cook for a few minutes till everything is incorporated, put in the pork chunks, stir, and simmer for half an hour on low, stirring occasionally. Add a pinch of sugar at the end. When it's nice and stiff, squeeze a lemon over it.



From this post: BUT THAT SMELL!


KALE AND TOFU STIR-FRY WITH BACON

What the English might call a 'devil'.


KALE AND TOFU STIR-FRY WITH BACON

One pound fried tofu cubes bought at a market in Chinatown.
Three cloves of garlic, minced.
Two Tablespoons of sambal oelek or sambal badjak.
Two bunches (one pound) kale, rinsed and chopped.
Half a cup chicken stock.
Quarter cup sherry.
Dash of fish sauce.
Hefty pinch of sugar.
Salt and pepper.
Lime wedges.

Plus: Thick slices of French bread or sourdough drizzled with olive oil, and baked on an oiled sheet in the oven till nicely golden.

And: Six rashers of bacon cut in large pieces across, fried till almost crispy, with two to four tablespoons of the grease reserved.

First reduce the chicken stock, sherry, and fish sauce by two thirds with the pinch of sugar added. Heat up the bacon grease in a roomy fry pan, add the garlic and stir about, then add the sambal and chopped kale, stir around a few seconds on high heat, pour the reduced stock and sherry mixture into the pan and dump in the tofu and bacon pieces, toss till heated through. Add salt and pepper. Serve with the toasted slices of bread for crunch.
Lime wedges for squeezing.


A BURRITO WITH FAT IN IT!>


SALT FISH AND CHICKEN FRIED RICE

Classic lunch fried rice.


鹹魚雞粒炒飯
['haam yü gai naap chaau faan']

For two people you will need between a quarter of a pound and a half pound of small chunked chicken, marinated in a little corn starch and rice wine. Plus nearly four ounces of a moister softer salt fish than the plank fish (柴魚 'chai yü') used for jook (柴魚花生粥 'chai yü faa saang juk'), or the dried flounder (左口魚 'jo hau yu') in won ton soup. Plus some shredded lettuce and chopped random green vegetable as desired, for both colour and a fresh flavour. A little minced ginger, chopped scallions, and an egg. And two to three cups of cooked rice, at room temperature.

Break the rice apart so it doesn't clump, cut the salt fish into small pieces, and whisk the egg.

Stir-fry the random green vegetable first, decant, leaving the hot oil in the pan. Stir-fry the salt fish till golden, decant. Add the chicken to the hot oil, quickly stir about to cook, then add the rice and minced ginger. When the rice is heated through push it to one side, dump the whisked egg into the clear space, and when it is softly set, break it into the rice, add the fish, vegetables, and lettuce, stir, add the scallion and mix in. Serve.


From this post: EXPERIMENTS WITH SALT FISH


GROUNDNUT CHOP

West African filtered through Anglo filtered through Dutchman. Good.


GROUNDNUT CHOP

Four chicken legs.
Two cups chicken stock.
Four large tomatoes, peeled and seeded.
One onion, chopped.
One or two TBS sambal oelek.
One TBS curry powder.
Quarter Tsp. ground cumin.
Quarter cup peanut butter.
A little minced garlic, ginger.
Dash of Worcestershire sauce.

Brown the chicken pieces in the frypan. Remove to a plate. Gild the onion, then add the garlic, ginger, and sambal oelek. When it is good and fragrant, put the chicken pieces back in and add the tomatoes, curry powder, and ground cumin. Stir about to coat the pieces, pour in the broth, scrape crusty bits off the bottom of the pan, bring to a boil then turn the heat low and let it simmer. Stir occasionally.

After twenty minutes, mix the peanut butter with half a cup of warm water, and add to the pan, with a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Stir this into the pan and stir till smooth. If it's too thick, add water. Simmer another ten minutes or so, then serve alongside a mound of rice, garnished liberally with chopped green chilies and parsley or cilantro.

If you want to be really authentic, in lieu of any minced ginger, rub the chicken pieces with a little ground dried ginger before browning them, and add smoked salt fish to the stew along with various vegetables. Cooked vegetables should be on the side (greens and pot liquor, or garlic spinach), and the sauce should be sort of thick. Smooth but thick.

Some people add Scotch Bonnets and hardboiled eggs.



From here: GROUNDNUT CHOP


CHARSIU KEDGEREE

A suitable dish for breakfast. If you're Cantonese Hindustani Dutch Anglo altogether.


CHARSIU KEDGEREE

One pound charsiu pork (叉燒), sliced at the store.
Four cups cooked rice.
Four hardboiled eggs, cut into quarters.
Two TBS Thai yellow curry paste.
One large onion, chopped.
Some minced ginger.
Generous pinches of nutmeg and ground cumin.
Dash Worcestershire Sauce (喼汁 'kip chap').

Chopped parsley / cilantro for garnish.
Lime wedges, sambal (chilipaste or hot sauce).

Slow-fry the onion and ginger in butter and olive oil till golden and fragrant. Add the curry paste and a little splash of water, stir to mix, continue cooking till the water is almost gone. Add the cooked rice and spice pinches, mix it. Then add the charsiu and the dash Worcestershire, and when it is all heated through, dump into a serving platter, and arrange the egg segments on top. Garnish with the parsley and cilantro. Or minced chives.

Serve with lime wedges and sambal.



From this post: WHEN THERE IS NO RED HERRING


COLESLAW

The Dutch contribution to July 4th. And somewhat regretable.


COLESLAW

One cabbage, cored and shredded. Or equivalent amounts red and green cabbage.
Two large carrots, peeled and shredded.
Small handful parsley, chopped.

Dressing:
One cup mayonnaise, or slightly more.
Two TBS fresh lime juice.
One TBS Dijon mustard.
One TBS chipotle paste, or slightly more .
One Tsp. anchovy paste.
One or two cloves garlic, lightly roasted, mashed smooth with olive oil.
Dash Tabasco.
Salt and pepper.

Whisk the mayo, mustard, pastes, garlic, Tabasco, and salt and pepper together till smooth. Use this to dress the slaw. Optionally, capers may be added, minced or not. Chopped olives also.

Don't make it too wet.

Chill for an hour.


From this post: THERE WERE COOKIES!


SOY SAUCE CHICKEN

The classic dish.

豉油雞
SOY SAUCE CHICKEN

Marinade
2½ cups soy sauce.
½ cup Shaoxing wine or sherry.
Four TBS dark soy sauce, for depth.
Four tablespoons sesame oil.
One cup brown sugar.
3 to 5 slices ginger.
3 to 5 cloves garlic, smashed.
5 green onions.
3 cloves.
1 or 2 star anise pods.
1 small cinnamon stick.
And a chicken.

Cut the scallions into large sections. Put everything in a saucepan, bring to a light boil while stirring. When the sugar has dissolved take it off the flame and let it cool down. Then use it to "marinate" a young freshly killed chicken overnight on the bottom shelf of the fridge. A food grade plastic bag is excellent for this, and if properly "wedged" will allow the liquid to touch all of the bird.

The next day take it out and place the bird inside a pot, pour the marinade in, and add some water to cover. Bring to a boil, and turn the heat low. After less than five minutes simmer, turn off the heat and let it sit for an hour or so.

Take the bird out of its liquid and chop into chunks.
Strew some minced scallion over to serve.



From here: THE BIRTHDAY CAKE


SALI BOTI

How to prepare Parsi mutton.

SALI BOTI

Fry a goodly amount of chopped onion in plenty of oil, add ginger and garlic when it starts to turn golden. Drain off the excess oil, keep frying the onion garlic ginger. Add red chili powder, then turmeric. Chopped chilies shortly after, salt and a small splash water. Add chunked mutton gosht and, and when the oil comes out, throw in several chopped tomatoes (peeled), some red chili paste, and two or three whole green chilies. Simmer for an hour or so, adding water as necessary to keep it very slightly soupy.
Then add ground cumin and garam masala.
Cook only a little while longer.

Then serve with potato straws (sali) on top.
A goodly handful. Both texture and taste.



SALI (potato shoestrings)

The best way to prepare them is deepfrying in an electric fryer, draining and salting them immediately once they come out of the hot oil. They keep in a sealed container, cool dry place, for about ten days.

Parsees dump these on mutton curries, keema, chicken, and even eggs (sali per eedu). Famously, jordaloo boti (a hearty and tangy mutton dish with dried apricots) seems incomplete without sali, though that is not customary.


From this post: The prospect of lunch


RENDANG

A coconut and meat dish from Indonesia. Meant as a minor accompaniment to rice and other dishes.


RENDANG

One onion, chopped.
Half a dozen cloves of garlic.
Half a cup mashed hot chilies (sambal ulek).
A thumblength ginger (in lieu of galangal).
One TBS ground turmeric.
One teaspoon each coriander and cumin powder.
Two pounds of meat cut into large chunks.
Four to six cups of coconut milk (three cans).
Three stalks lemon grass, bruised.

Nutmeg and lemon zest.

Put the onion, chilies, garlic, ginger, and spices in a blender, whir till smooth. Add a little of the coconut milk if necessary. Salt and pepper the meat, rub with oil, and brown a little in a pan. Add the spice puree and cook while stirring for five minutes or so, then inundate with the rest of the coconut milk and add the lemon grass. Put to simmer over low heat, stirring frequently, till all the liquid is gone and the oil has separated, which will take a few hours.
Then raise the heat a bit, add a generous pinch of nutmeg and some grated lemon zest, and "fry" the meat till dark and toasty.


Originally from this post: OILING THE MEAT


SHRIMP SINGAPORE

A classic American dish from the past which I have never prepared. And probably won't.

Shrimp Singapore

4 firm bananas
Melted butter or margarine
Salt
1 pound fresh shrimp, cleaned and cooked
2 cups hot cooked rice

Set oven for moderately hot, 375°, and grease a shallow baking dish. Peel bananas; cut in half, crosswise, and arrange in the dish. Brush with melted butter; sprinkle lightly with salt. Bake 15 to 18 minutes or until bananas are fork tender. Meanwhile, place shrimp in the top of a double boiler; heat over hot water. When hot, place shrimp on a bed of cooked rice and arrange cooked bananas around edge. Pour part of the Curry Sauce on top; serve remainder on the side. Makes 4 servings

Curry Sauce
6 Tbsp. butter or margarine
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
2 1/2 cups hot chicken consommé or stock

Melt butter or margarine in a saucepan. Remove from heat. Add flour, curry powder, salt and pepper and stir until smooth. Slowly stir in hot consommé or stock. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until sauce is smooth and thickened. Makes 3 cups sauce.


NOTE: Chicken bouillon may be substituted for the chicken consommé. Omit salt from the recipe and dissolve 2 chicken bouillon cubes in 2 1/2 cups boiling water.


FISH FLAVOUR EGGPLANT SAUCE

魚香茄子汁
YÜ HEUNG KE JI CHAP

Six to ten garlic cloves, minced.
Equivalent amount of ginger, minced.
Three scallions, minced.
Three fresh hot peppers, minced.
Half a cup sherry or rice wine.
Three TBS hot bean paste (辣豆瓣酱 'laat dau-baan jeung').
Three TBS soy sauce.
Three TBS fragrant black vinegar (鎮江香醋 'jan-gong heung-cho').
One TBS of chili-garlic sauce.
A teaspoon of sugar.
Cooking oil.
A brisk dash dark sesame oil (芝麻油 'ji maa yau') or chili-oil (辣椒油 'laat chiu yau').

Innovation: one cup of good chicken stock, and a tablespoon of corn starch whisked with two tablespoons of luke-warm water. This way there will be enough for multiple servings of bird.


Heat a pan with the cooking oil, and dump the garlic, ginger, scallion, and chili into it. Stirfry till the fragrance rises and the garlic is golden. Splash the sherry into the hot pan, let it flame, then mix everything else in, and continue, stirring as you go. Add more water if necessary, when it's done decant to a gravy boat.


Originally from this post: IT'S ALL WHITE MEAT


Friday, January 1, 2021

GREEN CURRY PASTE

Thai recipes call for this, and standardized commercial versions are available. If making your own, note that a correct recipe would include coriander root, which is hard to find away from specialty markets.
But strictly speaking, one can do without.
If fresh galangal (lengkuas) is available, use that instead of most of the ginger.


CURRY PASTE

6 cloves of garlic.
2 shallots.
One large thumblength ginger.
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and rinsed.
9 green Serrano chillies or 6 green Thai chilies.
One Tsp ground cumin.
One Tsp ground coriander.
One Tsp fresh lemon zest (in lieu of makrut or djeruk perut).
1/4 tsp white pepper.
1/4 tsp turmeric.
One cup of fresh coriander.
2 Tbs fish sauce.
A pinch of sugar.


Mince what can be minced before dumping everything into the blender. Osterize, adding a dribble of water if and as necessary.

This makes enough for one or two dishes. If making a larger quantity, wrap it in plastic and freeze it.